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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Kevin Flynn, post: 2655409, member: 75567&quot;]I agree, IMO it should take more time, especially in determining grade, especially for uncirculated coins, but again it is just an opinion, and sometimes first instinct is correct, plus if you take three people, average out best guess, you get close enough IMO.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>I sent the grading services an idea years ago of how to improve grading, when you get the coin, you already have, or should have denom, type, date and mint mark, if not, it should be with the coin and scanable.&nbsp; As you type in your opinion, three pairs of photos come up, showing grade chosen, one above and one below, this way you see quickly what the norm is.&nbsp; Same for proofs, as you type, you get diagnostics that help you verify, it does not slow you down, but creates a quick visual reference for what it should look like.</p><p><br /></p><p>On the 5 seconds, Mark Salzberg of NGC stated this before.</p><p>More than likely, for die varieties and special coins, then have one of their specialist check.</p><p><br /></p><p>I read in one of the threads herein about dealer verification.&nbsp; A friend of mine had a 1909-S VDB, which he requested me to verify.&nbsp; I verified as Die #2, it had all the diagnostics, and was not counterfeit.&nbsp; He sold the set which included my authentication letter.&nbsp; Two weeks letter I get an email from the buyer, stating that he showed the coin to four dealers, all of whom said it was counterfeit.&nbsp; I sent him the photos from my book, which precisely show the diagnostics, what to look for on the S mintmark, relative position of the S to the date, B of VDB and so on.&nbsp; It was obvious that the dealers did not know how to authenticate, did not know what to look for, or perhaps wanted to buy the coin cheap.&nbsp; There are many good books out there which can help identify coins from particular dies, become the expert yourself and not depend upon others.</p><p><br /></p><p>Kevin[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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