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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 3306582, member: 19463"]Camera and print proportions have always mystified me. A lot of the blame IMO goes to Ernst Leitz, inventor of the 35mm Leica camera, who settled on a frame size of 24x36mm or 2:3 proportions. Paper manufacturers and frame manufacturers preferred 8x10" size which was great for the old cutfilm cameras in 4x5 and 8x10 sizes but ordinary people stopped using those long ago. Digital SLR cameras still us the old 35mm film Leica standard but many digital cameras went back to something between the two proportionally. Workers in photo labs were blamed for poor work when people ordered an 8x10 print from a 35mm frame shot with no slop space around. To make the print, they had to crop off some from the long side losing the people on the edge or the top of the Eiffel Tower shot vertically. A few digital cameras even had settings that changed the proportions of the images recorded so you could pick what made sense to you.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]876221[/ATTACH] </p><p>Some may have noticed my coin photos have extra black at top and bottom. This is because those files can be used at Costco (the best photo prints I can get locally are from Costco) to make 4x6 prints (currently $0.17). Costco also makes prints 8x12, 12x18 and 20x30" all of which conform to the 2:3 proportions. If I cropped tight on the coins and sent that file to be printed, the right and left ends would not be on the paper. Other printing shops might key on the long dimension and give a print 6" long but only 3" tall. Their customers might complain that they paid for 4" and were cheated. You can not win dealing with the public. </p><p><br /></p><p>TIF did a good job explaining the material covered. I also use Photoshop Elements but use about 10% of all the features offered. There are many other programs with different features or the same ones that are labelled differently. I started with a different program long ago but Canon gave away Elements 2.0 and hooked me on their way of doing things. I now have 13.0 and have no intention of buying the new versions until they add a feature I really want. Windows 10 won't run earlier versions so I was forced to upgrade from Elements 10. The feature that keeps me 'loyal' is that Elements handles 16 bit images and many others stop at 8 bits. If you don't know what that means, you probably don't need to. I use the same software for non-coin photos where there are different 'needs'.</p><p><br /></p><p>Yes, as a matter of fact, I do make my posts too long to appeal to people not interested. Those who want to talk about such matters are free to contact me privately but most people don't read long posts so I don't expect many to see that invitation. The best part of Coin Talk is the Conversations utility where we who want to chat can do that with the few who care.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 3306582, member: 19463"]Camera and print proportions have always mystified me. A lot of the blame IMO goes to Ernst Leitz, inventor of the 35mm Leica camera, who settled on a frame size of 24x36mm or 2:3 proportions. Paper manufacturers and frame manufacturers preferred 8x10" size which was great for the old cutfilm cameras in 4x5 and 8x10 sizes but ordinary people stopped using those long ago. Digital SLR cameras still us the old 35mm film Leica standard but many digital cameras went back to something between the two proportionally. Workers in photo labs were blamed for poor work when people ordered an 8x10 print from a 35mm frame shot with no slop space around. To make the print, they had to crop off some from the long side losing the people on the edge or the top of the Eiffel Tower shot vertically. A few digital cameras even had settings that changed the proportions of the images recorded so you could pick what made sense to you. [ATTACH=full]876221[/ATTACH] Some may have noticed my coin photos have extra black at top and bottom. This is because those files can be used at Costco (the best photo prints I can get locally are from Costco) to make 4x6 prints (currently $0.17). Costco also makes prints 8x12, 12x18 and 20x30" all of which conform to the 2:3 proportions. If I cropped tight on the coins and sent that file to be printed, the right and left ends would not be on the paper. Other printing shops might key on the long dimension and give a print 6" long but only 3" tall. Their customers might complain that they paid for 4" and were cheated. You can not win dealing with the public. TIF did a good job explaining the material covered. I also use Photoshop Elements but use about 10% of all the features offered. There are many other programs with different features or the same ones that are labelled differently. I started with a different program long ago but Canon gave away Elements 2.0 and hooked me on their way of doing things. I now have 13.0 and have no intention of buying the new versions until they add a feature I really want. Windows 10 won't run earlier versions so I was forced to upgrade from Elements 10. The feature that keeps me 'loyal' is that Elements handles 16 bit images and many others stop at 8 bits. If you don't know what that means, you probably don't need to. I use the same software for non-coin photos where there are different 'needs'. Yes, as a matter of fact, I do make my posts too long to appeal to people not interested. Those who want to talk about such matters are free to contact me privately but most people don't read long posts so I don't expect many to see that invitation. The best part of Coin Talk is the Conversations utility where we who want to chat can do that with the few who care.[/QUOTE]
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