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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;desertgem, post: 620269, member: 15199&quot;]Of course opinions will vary. I haven&#039;t used eagle products, but basically they just substituted plastic for the cardboard in a 2x2. Better because of lack of cardboard, but even better because of the lack of staples. Staples will corrode and since they go through the mylar film area also, toning/corrosion will occur over a period of time adjacent to the staples, </p><p><br /></p><p>Airtightness is relative. When White did his studies and book &quot;Coin Chemistry&quot; on toning/corrosion he found that KoinTains were the best for tight fit and least susceptable to influx of hydrogen sulfide over whitman hard plastic holders and Air-tite holders. I would use them, except they are so &quot;Darn&quot; hard to work with for me!</p><p><br /></p><p>He did show with an experiment that a whitman hard plastic holder sealed with Devcon 5 min. epoxy around the outside edge of a sealed holder was a very good way also, with no change. He used levels of H2S far above normal environmental, affecting a coin as he watched within a few minutes.</p><p><br /></p><p>A neat trick he showed which could be used by the &quot;Zip lock&quot; storage proponents was to add a couple of BU copper cents loose in the bag along with your holdered coins. The loose coins would show toning and darkening and then they could be replaced with more &quot;trap coins&quot;&nbsp; rather like a poorman&#039;s intercept method.</p><p><br /></p><p>Sorry for the rambling. I personally like the method of rinsing a coin with acetone quickly, air dry, put into an archival 2x2 plastic flip, flatten it to get the air out and heat seal twice. </p><p><br /></p><p>Jim[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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