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<p>[QUOTE="ksmooter61, post: 26360723, member: 169607"]Next is the side by side, like the professionals do. I am NOT a professional, but I can get close. I use Excel, where I designed a frame with a background that matches the d9d9d9 I used on the coin photo, so none of the background shows. Reading other posts from CT members gave me a lot of good advice, one being to add some sort of watermark to keep it from being too smooth. </p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1682434[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>There is a positioning grid that I bring to front, then load the coin photos. I set the height of each to the prescribed amount (width matches as the aspect ratio is locked on and the photo was perfectly square when it was cropped), then place them in the grid.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1682435[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>Next is to clean up the edges. Due to the background editor not being perfect. I made a "doughnut" of the exact same size as the perimeter of the coin in the same color (d9d9d9) so it blends in, but when brought to front will cover the edges of the photo (I changed the color of the one on the right to brown so it could be seen). Then each coin is selected and positioned to best show the edges.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1682436[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>As I mentioned sometimes the background will eat into the photo a little, so I have an arc that matches the edge of the coin and set the color to match. This will smooth out the defect. If there is actual damage I don't do this, only if it is due to the editing software.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1682437[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>Finally, edit the data and set my grade for raw (<b>L</b>earning <b>E</b>very <b>D</b>ay <b>G</b>rading <b>S</b>ervice), or the TPG info if I freed the coin from a slab, add any details (none to show on this coin) then do a snip of the full frame and it is done.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1682438[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="ksmooter61, post: 26360723, member: 169607"]Next is the side by side, like the professionals do. I am NOT a professional, but I can get close. I use Excel, where I designed a frame with a background that matches the d9d9d9 I used on the coin photo, so none of the background shows. Reading other posts from CT members gave me a lot of good advice, one being to add some sort of watermark to keep it from being too smooth. [ATTACH=full]1682434[/ATTACH] There is a positioning grid that I bring to front, then load the coin photos. I set the height of each to the prescribed amount (width matches as the aspect ratio is locked on and the photo was perfectly square when it was cropped), then place them in the grid. [ATTACH=full]1682435[/ATTACH] Next is to clean up the edges. Due to the background editor not being perfect. I made a "doughnut" of the exact same size as the perimeter of the coin in the same color (d9d9d9) so it blends in, but when brought to front will cover the edges of the photo (I changed the color of the one on the right to brown so it could be seen). Then each coin is selected and positioned to best show the edges. [ATTACH=full]1682436[/ATTACH] As I mentioned sometimes the background will eat into the photo a little, so I have an arc that matches the edge of the coin and set the color to match. This will smooth out the defect. If there is actual damage I don't do this, only if it is due to the editing software. [ATTACH=full]1682437[/ATTACH] Finally, edit the data and set my grade for raw ([B]L[/B]earning [B]E[/B]very [B]D[/B]ay [B]G[/B]rading [B]S[/B]ervice), or the TPG info if I freed the coin from a slab, add any details (none to show on this coin) then do a snip of the full frame and it is done. [ATTACH=full]1682438[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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