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<p>[QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 523151, member: 16510"]I know there are other posts, threads on learning doublED dies but as many questions as we get on here and as much confusion as there is each day on eBay I feel a frank, not to technical thread is in order.</p><p>With this thread I will not go into the die making process in depth because I believe it is too much information for the beginner - </p><p> </p><p>1. A doublED die is just that, a doublED, (not double) die. It is a die that has been hubbed or distorted in a manner during hubbing that results in devices, numbering, lettering or images on portions of that die that have been doublED, tripled, etc. - at this point a doublED die is independent of any coins it may strike. It is a doublED die first, then the coins it may strike are called doublED die coins from that die.</p><p> </p><p>2. A doublED die is not a double strike, ejection strike, machine doubling, mechanically doubled or shift struck coin. Doubling on any coin "does not a doublED die make"!</p><p> </p><p>3. The majority of DoublED dies are closer than most people can even see that are new to the hobby. In other words it take some experience to even be able to discern most true doubled dies from coins struck from a normal die.</p><p> </p><p>4. DoublED die have many characteristics that are common to most forms of true doublED dies. The doubling will have splits in the ends or serifs of letters and or numbers. The doubled images will be close to but slightly ajar of the primary devise. Think juxtapositioned of, slightly on top of but ajar from the underlying images. True doublED dies are generally thick extra design images with both appearing as if they were fully struck up. Also doublED dies will show doubling in a clockwise or counterclockwise or north and south direction as you look across the coins surface.</p><p> </p><p>5. Except in rare cases true doublED dies will occur only on the obverse or reverse of the coin. There are doubled dies existing in both coins meant for circulation and proofs and in all denominations of US coins.</p><p> </p><p>6. The largest amount of known doublED dies have been from about 1930 thru 1983 in US coins.</p><p> </p><p>7. A coin with both a date and mint mark doubled in the same amount or direction prior to about 1990 is almost always a mechanically doubled coin - doublED dies occur during hubbing long before the mint mark was added.</p><p> </p><p>8. An already rare coin also with a doublED die will generally not enhance it's value or in other words the "higher numismatic value" a coin has to begin with the less any die variety will add additional value to it. (think 1914-D Lincoln cent with an RPM (re-punched mintmark) - the coin is already valuable to begin with the enhancement of the RPM is next to nothing - people who want that coin want the 14-D regardless of the varieity.</p><p> </p><p>9. All of the above is not set in stone and there are exceptions to every rule and no ones knows everything - recently a looked at a 1963 guild to error / variety coins - the author stated many thing that has since been found to be not only untrue but completely in error.</p><p> </p><p>10. AND PERHAPS the most important of all - this area of numismatics is very rewarding but not for everyone. In fact I have met persons who cannot see doubled dies or only the strongest ones. I am not sure why this is but a suspect some kind of spacial difficulty or interpretation of images but several have show this prepencity. Additionally we search a lot of coins - I search most weeks up to 7500 Lincolns. That equates to about 15 hours or more and many weeks I find nothing. On the flip side I have bought proof sets for $11 and sold the Lincoln's for $2000. I have found dozens of new varieties for the Wexler files and found at least $20,000 to $35,000 worth of die varieties in the past 12 years.</p><p> </p><p>I sure hopes this helps you all,[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 523151, member: 16510"]I know there are other posts, threads on learning doublED dies but as many questions as we get on here and as much confusion as there is each day on eBay I feel a frank, not to technical thread is in order. With this thread I will not go into the die making process in depth because I believe it is too much information for the beginner - 1. A doublED die is just that, a doublED, (not double) die. It is a die that has been hubbed or distorted in a manner during hubbing that results in devices, numbering, lettering or images on portions of that die that have been doublED, tripled, etc. - at this point a doublED die is independent of any coins it may strike. It is a doublED die first, then the coins it may strike are called doublED die coins from that die. 2. A doublED die is not a double strike, ejection strike, machine doubling, mechanically doubled or shift struck coin. Doubling on any coin "does not a doublED die make"! 3. The majority of DoublED dies are closer than most people can even see that are new to the hobby. In other words it take some experience to even be able to discern most true doubled dies from coins struck from a normal die. 4. DoublED die have many characteristics that are common to most forms of true doublED dies. The doubling will have splits in the ends or serifs of letters and or numbers. The doubled images will be close to but slightly ajar of the primary devise. Think juxtapositioned of, slightly on top of but ajar from the underlying images. True doublED dies are generally thick extra design images with both appearing as if they were fully struck up. Also doublED dies will show doubling in a clockwise or counterclockwise or north and south direction as you look across the coins surface. 5. Except in rare cases true doublED dies will occur only on the obverse or reverse of the coin. There are doubled dies existing in both coins meant for circulation and proofs and in all denominations of US coins. 6. The largest amount of known doublED dies have been from about 1930 thru 1983 in US coins. 7. A coin with both a date and mint mark doubled in the same amount or direction prior to about 1990 is almost always a mechanically doubled coin - doublED dies occur during hubbing long before the mint mark was added. 8. An already rare coin also with a doublED die will generally not enhance it's value or in other words the "higher numismatic value" a coin has to begin with the less any die variety will add additional value to it. (think 1914-D Lincoln cent with an RPM (re-punched mintmark) - the coin is already valuable to begin with the enhancement of the RPM is next to nothing - people who want that coin want the 14-D regardless of the varieity. 9. All of the above is not set in stone and there are exceptions to every rule and no ones knows everything - recently a looked at a 1963 guild to error / variety coins - the author stated many thing that has since been found to be not only untrue but completely in error. 10. AND PERHAPS the most important of all - this area of numismatics is very rewarding but not for everyone. In fact I have met persons who cannot see doubled dies or only the strongest ones. I am not sure why this is but a suspect some kind of spacial difficulty or interpretation of images but several have show this prepencity. Additionally we search a lot of coins - I search most weeks up to 7500 Lincolns. That equates to about 15 hours or more and many weeks I find nothing. On the flip side I have bought proof sets for $11 and sold the Lincoln's for $2000. I have found dozens of new varieties for the Wexler files and found at least $20,000 to $35,000 worth of die varieties in the past 12 years. I sure hopes this helps you all,[/QUOTE]
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