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Double Clip Blank Dime Planchet w/ Reeding
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<p>[QUOTE="This_is_wes, post: 3510373, member: 102356"]I’m having a hard time seeing the difference. Including more photos. </p><p>Layers appear the same as other dimes. What I see is a thin copper/nickel layer, copper core, and another thicker copper/nickel layer. The thicker outer layer is overlapping the core in the clipped area. I believe this is due to whatever force transferred the marking. </p><p><br /></p><p>Comparing the reeding to a regular strike I see broad valleys and narrow ridges, as false reeding is described. If false reeding is possible by a newly-struck dime rolling and squeezing against an unstruck planchet, then wouldn’t this be possible? If not what does actual false reeding look like? I haven’t been able to find any examples. </p><p><br /></p><p>Also, found a raised button while inspecting further. Looks similar to those found on the reverse of regular strikes. The location doesn’t seem to help much though.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="This_is_wes, post: 3510373, member: 102356"]I’m having a hard time seeing the difference. Including more photos. Layers appear the same as other dimes. What I see is a thin copper/nickel layer, copper core, and another thicker copper/nickel layer. The thicker outer layer is overlapping the core in the clipped area. I believe this is due to whatever force transferred the marking. Comparing the reeding to a regular strike I see broad valleys and narrow ridges, as false reeding is described. If false reeding is possible by a newly-struck dime rolling and squeezing against an unstruck planchet, then wouldn’t this be possible? If not what does actual false reeding look like? I haven’t been able to find any examples. Also, found a raised button while inspecting further. Looks similar to those found on the reverse of regular strikes. The location doesn’t seem to help much though.[/QUOTE]
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