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<p>[QUOTE="CoinGal07, post: 402843, member: 8843"]I stand by my advice based on years of seeing countless incomplete coin series valued at precious metal content only due to missing the key date coins OR completed series but the weighted average of the collection is greatly diminished because the key date is such an inferior grade compared to the rest of the series that the bid price of the series is lowered two-three grades when the collector attempts to sell.</p><p> </p><p>All of this advice is cumulative - it goes hand in hand with 'know your coin, know your seller.'</p><p> </p><p>Additionally, these days, just because the coin 'isn't' the key date doesn't guarantee it's authenticity. We've all read on here and some have encountered in person counterfeit examples of coins with minimal numismatic value and asked 'why would anyone counterfeit a non key coin?' But the fact is, they do. Either practicing, minimizing the questions about the coin, knowing greed steps in and people think they are getting a good deal, etc. Who knows, but it happens.</p><p> </p><p>You may well throw away a small fortune while attaining that 'sharp experienced eye' with the misconception 'it's not an expensive coin, it must be real' and proceed forward basing everything you think you know about the series on the wrong coins.</p><p> </p><p>If you're approaching coin collecting with the agenda of 'I just buy what I like, I don't have any real plan on any entire series' - then by all means, buy what you like and can afford. </p><p> </p><p>But if you have been collecting and studying coins for a while decided "I want to be a true collector and my goal is to attain the best possible specimen of each coin in this series that I can afford' then the advise remains the same. Buy your key date, in the best grade you can afford. The price of that coin, sans a vault of undiscovered bags being released, will only continue to grow as time passes. It will set the tone for the rest of the series you pursue.</p><p> </p><p>Happy Collecting.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="CoinGal07, post: 402843, member: 8843"]I stand by my advice based on years of seeing countless incomplete coin series valued at precious metal content only due to missing the key date coins OR completed series but the weighted average of the collection is greatly diminished because the key date is such an inferior grade compared to the rest of the series that the bid price of the series is lowered two-three grades when the collector attempts to sell. All of this advice is cumulative - it goes hand in hand with 'know your coin, know your seller.' Additionally, these days, just because the coin 'isn't' the key date doesn't guarantee it's authenticity. We've all read on here and some have encountered in person counterfeit examples of coins with minimal numismatic value and asked 'why would anyone counterfeit a non key coin?' But the fact is, they do. Either practicing, minimizing the questions about the coin, knowing greed steps in and people think they are getting a good deal, etc. Who knows, but it happens. You may well throw away a small fortune while attaining that 'sharp experienced eye' with the misconception 'it's not an expensive coin, it must be real' and proceed forward basing everything you think you know about the series on the wrong coins. If you're approaching coin collecting with the agenda of 'I just buy what I like, I don't have any real plan on any entire series' - then by all means, buy what you like and can afford. But if you have been collecting and studying coins for a while decided "I want to be a true collector and my goal is to attain the best possible specimen of each coin in this series that I can afford' then the advise remains the same. Buy your key date, in the best grade you can afford. The price of that coin, sans a vault of undiscovered bags being released, will only continue to grow as time passes. It will set the tone for the rest of the series you pursue. Happy Collecting.[/QUOTE]
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