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<p>[QUOTE="Speedy, post: 93335, member: 705"]A proof coin DOESN'T have to have CAMEO to make it a proof.</p><p>Proof is a type of striking...it is rare to find many CAMEO coins before 1980's... (late 1970's)....proof coins from before that might have CAMEO but it doesn't make them not a proof if they don't...the strike...the rim...the reeding...the detail...are all things one must look at.</p><p>A proof coin is struck 2 or 3 times...a business strike is struck once.</p><p>I would suggest that if you plain on collecting you buy books and read them...I don't mean to sound mean but Buy the book BEFORE you buy or sell the coin.</p><p>Buy books on FE and IHC cents...buy books about the types of coins you like...and books on grading...that would help a lot to you.</p><p> </p><p>Here is something to read....</p><p><br /></p><p>Proof Coins are struck on specially prepared planchets of authorized metal from regular dies which have been polished . the method of manufacture purpose and even the name of proof coins have changed through the years but there are certain characteristics common virtually all issued....first the surface of a proof coins will disclose its special preparation whether brilliant or matte and not the abrasions that result from ordinary Mint handling. When a proof coin is ejected from the press (die) it is caught in a soft cloth (at least it use to be) and not permitted to collide with other coins.</p><p>Secondly proof coins have unusually sharp relief because they have always been struck n either a screw or hydraulic press instead of on fast-action toggle joint machines the former instead of exerting a quick blow at one leave of force yield a squeeze which permits the metal to penetrates more deeply into the delicate marking of the die, creating a fine, intricate embossing. this effect is accentuated by a succession of blows on the same planchet whereas business strikes receive only a outward from the center of the planchet which tends to build up along the edge. Because patterns are meant to display to the best purpose their particular design they have almost always been struck as proofs. In fact the 1792 Mint Act-- a copper pattern for a disme was struck as a proof. However we are now concerned with coins not patterns and for the moment with those only that have been struck in their authorized metal.</p><p><br /></p><p>In the early days of the Mint, the equivalent of what we now call proofs were known as master or specimen coins. THey were not made with the case or experience that later issues enjoyed, and the occasion was generally dictated by some internal circumstance such as a new design. For example, when the 1793 Wreath cent replaced the unpopular chain design, a few specimens were struck on polished planchets that had been carefully centered on the die. Whether or not one calls these proofs they were obviously made to represent the best work the Mint could do at the time. </p><p><br /></p><p>Beginning in 1907 the mint introduced various new proof surfaces with each change of design. The proof eagles and double eagles of that year show a satin finish, while the proof quarters eagles are half eagles struck in 1908 have a darker, matte surface. The 1909 Lincoln cents are found with both satin and matte finishes, the 1913-16 Indian head nickels with a not vary convincing matte surface. Matte proof number among the new silver coins for 1916, but a satin finish dime is also known for that year. Other matte proofs include the 1921-22 peace dollars and many commemorative issues. The sandblast finish is found on the Hawaiian memorial half dollar, and the gold coins from 1912-16. the matte finish was produced by pickling the planchets in dilute acid, the sandblast by pelting the planchets with a fine stream of sand [projected by compressed air. The satin finish is probably a variation of the matte , using polished dies. Brilliant proof sets resumed in 1936 and were issued regularly to 1942. The practice was then discontinued until 1950 to 1964 and then discontinued until 1968</p><p>From all this it should be clear that the term proof doesn't signify a premium condition one stop above UNC but a special coinage. when this fact is properly understood the collector will be ale to reject many first strikes and refurbished coins offered as proof.</p><p>First compare the relief of the purported proof of that of an UNC coin...then lay the 2 coins side by side and examine their respective width. also look at the surface of your proof through a magnifying glass. the the tiny lines you see are raised they are result of the die polishing and are not scratches. Finally examine the recessed areas of the coins. Are they polished as they should be on a proof? Remember what is the lowest on the coin is the highest on the die and receives the soundest buffing.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>You know...I don't see anywhere where it says you get the coin that is shown.......</p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p>Neither did I...but it was worth it....</p><p><br /></p><p>I disagree...but I'm glad we don't think the same...</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I hope I'm not sounding mean or hard headed...(maybe I am hard headed) but I would say this to any forum member....and I'm sorry if I have been.</p><p><br /></p><p>Speedy[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Speedy, post: 93335, member: 705"]A proof coin DOESN'T have to have CAMEO to make it a proof. Proof is a type of striking...it is rare to find many CAMEO coins before 1980's... (late 1970's)....proof coins from before that might have CAMEO but it doesn't make them not a proof if they don't...the strike...the rim...the reeding...the detail...are all things one must look at. A proof coin is struck 2 or 3 times...a business strike is struck once. I would suggest that if you plain on collecting you buy books and read them...I don't mean to sound mean but Buy the book BEFORE you buy or sell the coin. Buy books on FE and IHC cents...buy books about the types of coins you like...and books on grading...that would help a lot to you. Here is something to read.... Proof Coins are struck on specially prepared planchets of authorized metal from regular dies which have been polished . the method of manufacture purpose and even the name of proof coins have changed through the years but there are certain characteristics common virtually all issued....first the surface of a proof coins will disclose its special preparation whether brilliant or matte and not the abrasions that result from ordinary Mint handling. When a proof coin is ejected from the press (die) it is caught in a soft cloth (at least it use to be) and not permitted to collide with other coins. Secondly proof coins have unusually sharp relief because they have always been struck n either a screw or hydraulic press instead of on fast-action toggle joint machines the former instead of exerting a quick blow at one leave of force yield a squeeze which permits the metal to penetrates more deeply into the delicate marking of the die, creating a fine, intricate embossing. this effect is accentuated by a succession of blows on the same planchet whereas business strikes receive only a outward from the center of the planchet which tends to build up along the edge. Because patterns are meant to display to the best purpose their particular design they have almost always been struck as proofs. In fact the 1792 Mint Act-- a copper pattern for a disme was struck as a proof. However we are now concerned with coins not patterns and for the moment with those only that have been struck in their authorized metal. In the early days of the Mint, the equivalent of what we now call proofs were known as master or specimen coins. THey were not made with the case or experience that later issues enjoyed, and the occasion was generally dictated by some internal circumstance such as a new design. For example, when the 1793 Wreath cent replaced the unpopular chain design, a few specimens were struck on polished planchets that had been carefully centered on the die. Whether or not one calls these proofs they were obviously made to represent the best work the Mint could do at the time. Beginning in 1907 the mint introduced various new proof surfaces with each change of design. The proof eagles and double eagles of that year show a satin finish, while the proof quarters eagles are half eagles struck in 1908 have a darker, matte surface. The 1909 Lincoln cents are found with both satin and matte finishes, the 1913-16 Indian head nickels with a not vary convincing matte surface. Matte proof number among the new silver coins for 1916, but a satin finish dime is also known for that year. Other matte proofs include the 1921-22 peace dollars and many commemorative issues. The sandblast finish is found on the Hawaiian memorial half dollar, and the gold coins from 1912-16. the matte finish was produced by pickling the planchets in dilute acid, the sandblast by pelting the planchets with a fine stream of sand [projected by compressed air. The satin finish is probably a variation of the matte , using polished dies. Brilliant proof sets resumed in 1936 and were issued regularly to 1942. The practice was then discontinued until 1950 to 1964 and then discontinued until 1968 From all this it should be clear that the term proof doesn't signify a premium condition one stop above UNC but a special coinage. when this fact is properly understood the collector will be ale to reject many first strikes and refurbished coins offered as proof. First compare the relief of the purported proof of that of an UNC coin...then lay the 2 coins side by side and examine their respective width. also look at the surface of your proof through a magnifying glass. the the tiny lines you see are raised they are result of the die polishing and are not scratches. Finally examine the recessed areas of the coins. Are they polished as they should be on a proof? Remember what is the lowest on the coin is the highest on the die and receives the soundest buffing. You know...I don't see anywhere where it says you get the coin that is shown....... Neither did I...but it was worth it.... I disagree...but I'm glad we don't think the same... I hope I'm not sounding mean or hard headed...(maybe I am hard headed) but I would say this to any forum member....and I'm sorry if I have been. Speedy[/QUOTE]
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