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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Skyman, post: 1125084, member: 28299&quot;]By PCGS standards that is a low end 66FBL.&nbsp; Personally I&#039;d call it a 65.</p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;ve been collecting Frankies, both proof and business strike, for 20+ years, and find them quite an enjoyable series to collect.&nbsp; If you are trying to get one for Type, and like a &quot;white&quot; coin, I would recommend a 1948 in MS65FBL for strike and luster.&nbsp; If you like toners, I would recommend a 1958-D (predominant colors are greens, reds etc.) in MS65-6FBL or a 1958 (predominant color is blue) in MS65-6 (note NOT FBL).&nbsp; The detail on coins made in 1958 will NOT be as good as coins from 1948 as the Master die was worn down in the interim.&nbsp; If you want a cameo&#039;d proof I&#039;d recommend either a &#039;56, &#039;62 or &#039;63 in whatever grade from PR66CAM to PR68DCAM best fits your wallet (do be aware, there is NO FBL designation on proofs, as they are all considered to be FBL).&nbsp; There are plenty of the specific date/mm/condition Franklins that I mentioned out there in these grades so you can be picky... take your time, as you&#039;ll see how wide a range the major TPG&#039;s have on their MS65-6&#039;s, so you can get a really nice one for the grade.</p><p><br /></p><p>One other point, IN GENERAL, PCGS Franklins tend to be a little bit tougher on the technical grade (e.g. 65 or 66) than NGC, while NGC tends to be stricter on the FBL designation.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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