Does this Franklin look 66 to you?

I'm going to concur , I'd be jumping up and down if they made a 65 . By the way, I can't jump either up or down , anymore .

 

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Every bit a 66 and FBL to boot. Eagle a little on the weak side, but will not effect a -66 grade. Good eye appeal coin, I'd have this in my collection for the right price. (look out for Registry participants, this is a good coin for them)

 

The better ones on Heritage have been getting more than wholesale. I don't mind paying if the quality is there.

Where do you live?

 

Thanks for all your opinions; the consensus is clearly in the 65 range.
And the other 66s I'm looking at are all similarly marked up!

 

I guess I need to send some Franklins in. Just sent in a bunch of peace dollars with mint marks I'm curious to see how they do.

 

NY, and I buy from shows so I can see the coins in hand.

 

Are you in or near the city? I'd rather see all coins in hand but, while Grand Rapids is not tiny, the selection is limited at area shows.

 

NY as in upstate, where we can enunciate properly, no yous, or let me axe you sometin, etc.

 

I haven't checked the sheets, but do you know the spread between a 65 and 66 ? I gave it a 65 too . In all fairness , I don't believe it would grade any higher. That doesn't mean to infer it isn't a nice looking coin.

 

Then what is the sense of having a coin slabbed ?

 

I love NYC and would live there in a heartbeat if I could afford it. I'd put up with all the bad stuff (and there's plenty of it) to have the good stuff.

 

It's quite a bit. On the 53-D I posted, wholesale for a 65 is $110, 66 is $650 and 67 is $14,650! 66 is clearly the pivotal MS grade of the series (in my view). It would be very disappointing to have to pay 66 money for what really is a 65.

BTW, I shot a little stick last night, first time in a while. Didn't do too poorly; the guy I shot with is a very good league-player. I was afraid I'd bring his game down too much!

 

haha. That is quite a spread in pricing. Thanks, I was just to lazy to go get my sheets .

 

If your thinking of getting it graded I would be careful.. They might get you on some of the nicks on the bust.. The fields are beautiful I got to admit.

 

By PCGS standards that is a low end 66FBL. Personally I'd call it a 65.

I've been collecting Frankies, both proof and business strike, for 20+ years, and find them quite an enjoyable series to collect. If you are trying to get one for Type, and like a "white" coin, I would recommend a 1948 in MS65FBL for strike and luster. If you like toners, I would recommend a 1958-D (predominant colors are greens, reds etc.) in MS65-6FBL or a 1958 (predominant color is blue) in MS65-6 (note NOT FBL). The detail on coins made in 1958 will NOT be as good as coins from 1948 as the Master die was worn down in the interim. If you want a cameo'd proof I'd recommend either a '56, '62 or '63 in whatever grade from PR66CAM to PR68DCAM best fits your wallet (do be aware, there is NO FBL designation on proofs, as they are all considered to be FBL). There are plenty of the specific date/mm/condition Franklins that I mentioned out there in these grades so you can be picky... take your time, as you'll see how wide a range the major TPG's have on their MS65-6's, so you can get a really nice one for the grade.

One other point, IN GENERAL, PCGS Franklins tend to be a little bit tougher on the technical grade (e.g. 65 or 66) than NGC, while NGC tends to be stricter on the FBL designation.

 

Thanks for the informative post! I'm tracking a few white 48's right now, among others and have noticed their good strike. I'll take my time, though; no hurry.