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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 1394053, member: 19463"]Diffraction is a fact of life and gets no better as you go up in sensor size. Certainly there is loss from diffraction at f/11 with a 1.6x sensor but I find that being able to stop down to f/16 with my Canon 5d mkII full frame sensor is offset by having to get closer or use a longer lens making it necessary to stop down more to get the desired depth of field. If you are shooting things that don't move, you can employ a focus stacking program (I use CombineZ) where you shoot several frames at a sharper aperture and it merges them into one having focus front to rear. </p><p>[ATTACH]166897.vB[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Canon DSLR's (any model) are wonderful for coin photography and I use my 100mm Canon macro with great satisfaction. However, what makes a difference in the photos is rarely the camera but such matters of how solidly the camera is mounted and how well the subject is lighted. I have many samples posted including a section on coin lighting showing the same coin shot with ring, normal artificial and natural daylight illumination. </p><p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" rel="nofollow">http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins</a></p><p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" rel="nofollow"><br /></a></p><p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" rel="nofollow">I also have a lot of opinions posted on my website but past experience here suggests that there are as many opinions on how best to take photos of coins as there are on which coins are worth collecting. My photo techniques favor ancient coins rather than slabbed proofs so you will have to work out what works for you. </a></p><p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" rel="nofollow"><br /></a></p><p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" rel="nofollow"><br /></a></p><p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins" rel="nofollow"></a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 1394053, member: 19463"]Diffraction is a fact of life and gets no better as you go up in sensor size. Certainly there is loss from diffraction at f/11 with a 1.6x sensor but I find that being able to stop down to f/16 with my Canon 5d mkII full frame sensor is offset by having to get closer or use a longer lens making it necessary to stop down more to get the desired depth of field. If you are shooting things that don't move, you can employ a focus stacking program (I use CombineZ) where you shoot several frames at a sharper aperture and it merges them into one having focus front to rear. [ATTACH]166897.vB[/ATTACH] Canon DSLR's (any model) are wonderful for coin photography and I use my 100mm Canon macro with great satisfaction. However, what makes a difference in the photos is rarely the camera but such matters of how solidly the camera is mounted and how well the subject is lighted. I have many samples posted including a section on coin lighting showing the same coin shot with ring, normal artificial and natural daylight illumination. [URL="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins"]http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/coins I also have a lot of opinions posted on my website but past experience here suggests that there are as many opinions on how best to take photos of coins as there are on which coins are worth collecting. My photo techniques favor ancient coins rather than slabbed proofs so you will have to work out what works for you. [/URL][/QUOTE]
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