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<p>[QUOTE="-jeffB, post: 1393866, member: 27832"]First, I have to say that I'm astonished you're using a Canon 100mm macro and ring-flash for dental photography. I use that lens for general macro work, and I love it, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't get my mouth around it (no, I'm not going to try) -- if someone tried to use it to photograph the inside of my mouth, there's no way they'd get an unobstructed view, never mind getting in light from the flash. And with the narrow depth of focus inherent to macro photography, I can't imagine getting a sharp image over more than a tiny section of a tooth.</p><p><br /></p><p>My dentist uses a wand camera with a business end that's not much bigger than a molar. I'm sure its images wouldn't fare well if you blew them up to poster size, but they're good enough for video and frame-capture, and the smaller sensor size means it's much easier to get your area of interest in focus.</p><p><br /></p><p>The requirements for coin photography are different in a number of important ways.</p><ul> <li>You can position a coin flat and parallel to your plane of focus, making it much easier to get the entire coin in focus.</li> <li>Coins aren't surrounded by other tissue that blocks your view and constrains your angles of viewing and illumination.</li> <li>Coins don't drool -- they aren't covered with a reflective, glare-inducing layer of liquid.</li> <li>Coins hold still.</li> </ul><p>Given these differences, I think most of us use a copy-stand type arrangement -- either a tripod or a rack that can hold the camera steady, pointed down at a flat surface, with lighting arranged around it. Since coins don't move, you can use conventional lighting with a longer exposure. This makes it easier to see what you're going to get, and gives you a LOT more control than a ring-flash or even multiple slave flashes.</p><p><br /></p><p>Coin photography has its own challenges -- capturing luster and toning, for example, can lead to some pretty esoteric lighting arrangements. As for the camera itself, though, just about anything with macro capability should do the trick; you just need to pick one with image quality that makes you happy.</p><p><br /></p><p>That's my take, anyhow. Please note that I'm not a professional numismatist, photographer, <i>or</i> dentist. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="-jeffB, post: 1393866, member: 27832"]First, I have to say that I'm astonished you're using a Canon 100mm macro and ring-flash for dental photography. I use that lens for general macro work, and I love it, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't get my mouth around it (no, I'm not going to try) -- if someone tried to use it to photograph the inside of my mouth, there's no way they'd get an unobstructed view, never mind getting in light from the flash. And with the narrow depth of focus inherent to macro photography, I can't imagine getting a sharp image over more than a tiny section of a tooth. My dentist uses a wand camera with a business end that's not much bigger than a molar. I'm sure its images wouldn't fare well if you blew them up to poster size, but they're good enough for video and frame-capture, and the smaller sensor size means it's much easier to get your area of interest in focus. The requirements for coin photography are different in a number of important ways. [LIST] [*]You can position a coin flat and parallel to your plane of focus, making it much easier to get the entire coin in focus. [*]Coins aren't surrounded by other tissue that blocks your view and constrains your angles of viewing and illumination. [*]Coins don't drool -- they aren't covered with a reflective, glare-inducing layer of liquid. [*]Coins hold still. [/LIST]Given these differences, I think most of us use a copy-stand type arrangement -- either a tripod or a rack that can hold the camera steady, pointed down at a flat surface, with lighting arranged around it. Since coins don't move, you can use conventional lighting with a longer exposure. This makes it easier to see what you're going to get, and gives you a LOT more control than a ring-flash or even multiple slave flashes. Coin photography has its own challenges -- capturing luster and toning, for example, can lead to some pretty esoteric lighting arrangements. As for the camera itself, though, just about anything with macro capability should do the trick; you just need to pick one with image quality that makes you happy. That's my take, anyhow. Please note that I'm not a professional numismatist, photographer, [I]or[/I] dentist. :)[/QUOTE]
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