Great improvement in the pictures. I think mine are still close to your befores. I am thinking about going to find some OTT lites on Friday if I can find the store. Maybe those will help. I don't need them to be as nice as lances, but anything to improve what they currently look like.
From what I see, you collect old copper. Brown copper is by far the hardest type for me to capture. And yeah...Lance's photos are on a different level for sure. Luv em.
Yeah, there are lots of threads on photography. It'd be easy enough to look them up. I started shooting about five years ago. Began with a compact camera with a nice lens (Panasonic Lumix), a tiny desktop tripod, and one gooseneck lamp. I wanted better so I made upgrades, first with an everyday D-SLR and a barely suitable 50mm macro lens. It was too heavy for the desktop tripod. So I fooled with a full-sized one and gerry-rigged stands and lighting. Awkward, but better. Later came a copy stand, remote shutter release, lots of experimenting with all the different lighting, a 100mm lens. Finally I bought Mark Goodman's excellent book, Numismatic Photography, studied it, and then picked up a used 180mm macro which I use now almost exclusively. I've said this before, as have others: you don't need a professional set-up for nice quality photos. A lot of CT members have demonstrated that. What you need is lots of patience, plenty of experiments, and good post-processing software. I shoot all images "raw" which captures detail that would otherwise be lost, and then bring them forward. Detail hidden in shadows, or overwhelmed by glare for example, can be recovered. All photos require adjustments to make them as true to life as possible. I'll put up some more IHC photos later, as long as no one feels I'm overdoing things. Lance.
No, really, Doug...I value your opinion. Speak up. Here are much larger versions, if that helps. Click on them. Thanks, Lance.
I still think the way the die was polished makes it look proof like. If you look at all the pictures the area in front of and behind the Indian look glossier than the other business strike coins you posted. And more nice coins.
It's an old discussion. Die polish lines do not crisscross - ever. And die polish lines always run in the same direction, everywhere on the coin. Thus much of what you see on that coin are not die polish lines. That said, you can often find die scratches that cross die polish lines. But die scratches are typically small and only found in isolated areas of a coin - as would be expected from small tool marks on a die. But rarely would you ever find them out in the open field. So most of those marks are not going to be die scratches either. Beginning to get the idea ?
I am not sure I understand. I agree that most die polish lines I have seen on early copper are in one direction. On the other hand, on the obverse of this coin only the fields have these lines which would be expected for die polish lines. In addition, the lines are no present on the letters, but break and then resume, look at the TES and (M)E. These lines very much appear to be present on the highest part of the die and do not extend into the devices which would be consistent with die polish. I can't see these being post mintage scratches, are you thinking they are something else?
I never heard the "rule" that polish lines must always travel the same direction. No argument that that is usually the case. But it seems obvious that this is an exception, if indeed there is such a rule. What other explanation can you offer? It's always fun finding a coin that stirs debate. Some things are always learned. Lance.
I'll go the route that there is no rule. I have seen the lines in different directions as if the machinist rotated the die as polishing off the rust. And as a machine worker that had to sharpen die cutters on occasion I will say it's not necessary for all the strokes of the hone to run parallel.
It's not a rule, it's a simple matter of what is possible. Dies are polished on a large, spinning zinc disk - many times larger in diameter than the die. So any die polish lines transferred to a die from that disk are always - virtually straight (it's an arc really but the arc is so shallow that you can't see it), all running in the same direction, and very consistent in their spacing and depth. They can never crisscross. They are also typically very fine, shallow lines. But they can vary in this regard, sometimes they are coarser than on another coin. Length may vary from short to long. And they are only found in the fields. There are basically 3 types of lines that can found on a die. 1 - die polish lines, 2- die scratches, 3 - flow lines caused by wear to the die. All of these have different characteristics. And if you know what those characteristics are you can recognize one from the other when you see them on a coin. The characteristics for die polish lines I have described above. Die scratches are typically short. They may be curved, straight, or jagged and of varying depth. And they are almost always found close to the devices or in protected areas like inside letter or numeral loops. And they can be found in the fields or on the devices. Wear lines (from metal flow) on a die are always straight. They can vary greatly in depth and spacing, even on the same coin, and can be found anywhere in the fields. Since you can find all of these on a die you can also find all of them on a coin. Sometimes you can find all of them on the same coin, it's common even to do so. But you can also find other types of lines on a coin. On a coin you also find metal flow lines - which are entirely different than those found on a die. Flow lines on a coin are always straight, very fine, and very uniform in both depth and spacing. You can also find scratches - caused by almost anything, even another coin. And they can be all shapes, sizes, and depths. Scratches on a coin can leave behind raised metal as well as incuse marks. Hairlines can be found on a coin. They are typically very fine, shallow lines. Some you can't even see with the naked eye. They can be straight, curved or even jagged. They can be long or short. They can all run one direction or they can crisscross. They can be quite coarse at times, or both coarse and fine, and like scratches they can leave raised metal as well as incuse marks. And they can be caused by virtually anything from rough handling to harsh cleaning. It is important to note that many collectors, dealers, and even the TPGs, can and often do confuse one or more of these types of lines a coin for another. So, in a nutshell, that coin has a mixture of several different types of lines on it. Many of them are hairlines. And because of that it is not deserving of that grade.
Doug, The fact is none of that explains why there are no hairlines on the devices. As was already mentioned, some of the hairlines stop at the devices and continue on the other side. This is totally consistant with the hairlines being on the die. Your theory is that the coin was mishandled or wiped, but what if it was the die that was mishandled or improperly polished. That would explain the coins lines without having to deal with the "problem" of the clean devices. One more piece of evidence to support my theory is the somewhat famous 1921 - S Vam Morgan 1i Polished Obverse A lot of crossing lines there. No lines on the devices. http://www.vamworld.com/1921-S+VAM-1I PCGS got it right and the coin deserves the grade. Happy Thanksgiving to all Mike
So no one ever used a wire brush to clean the rust off a die before use? Sorry but I found that around machine shops that is common practice and even hardened tool steel will show the marks when it's done. If the lines went onto the devices I would agree that the graders got it wrong but they do not. That plus the fact I have seen several coins that have been struck though steel wire errors that say wire brushes were used on the plant floors.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Those lines do not look like flowlines, or die cracks to me, so that leaves hairlines or die polish lines. Your explanation of the mechanics to polishing the die are helpful and explain why most die polish lines are parrellel, but is it possible the die was polished in more then one orientation to the disk? So polished once, then rotated 15 degrees and polished twice?
Take a new coin sometime and wipe it with a cloth. You'll find hairlines in the fields easily. Now see how many you can find on the devices. As for the Morgan, yeah you'll find those lines on pretty much every coin from that die marriage. But that doesn't make them die polish lines. Those lines are the result of die scratches, not die polishing. In regard to the grade issue, even though a coin is "as struck", that doesn't necessarily mean that it's deserving of a gem grade. A flaw is a flaw, no matter how or when it got there. I have no doubt that wire brushes were used on the mint floor. But they were not ever used to clean coin dies. For obvious reasons. You can believe what ya want guys, but I have presented the truth. And that's the nice thing about the truth, it remains to be the truth even when some don't believe it.
I used to think that. Now, with weak eyes, the ability to blow the pictures up is all that allows me to 'see' the coin at all.