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<p>[QUOTE="camlov2, post: 1079640, member: 26479"]I am actually doing $1 - $10 from 1914 to current. Stars I have only done $1 and $2 though.</p><p> </p><p>Zeplyn-The plus with picking a certain district is that you have a range of years to look for. For example---</p><p> </p><p>I am currently looking for SF $5 bills (for this example I will list uncirculated prices), </p><p>I am looking for a 2003 that might cost me $15 (3 times face value) </p><p>I am looking for a 1977A that might cost me $35 (7 times face value)</p><p>I am looking for a 1928 that might cost me $200 (40 times face value)</p><p> </p><p>I am also looking for a 1918 $2 note that would cost $2500! (not going to buy that high of a grade)</p><p> </p><p>If I am currently short on money I can look for more current dates, if I have extra money I can look for older dates. </p><p>It makes the hunt a little more flexable based on my current situation.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="camlov2, post: 1079640, member: 26479"]I am actually doing $1 - $10 from 1914 to current. Stars I have only done $1 and $2 though. Zeplyn-The plus with picking a certain district is that you have a range of years to look for. For example--- I am currently looking for SF $5 bills (for this example I will list uncirculated prices), I am looking for a 2003 that might cost me $15 (3 times face value) I am looking for a 1977A that might cost me $35 (7 times face value) I am looking for a 1928 that might cost me $200 (40 times face value) I am also looking for a 1918 $2 note that would cost $2500! (not going to buy that high of a grade) If I am currently short on money I can look for more current dates, if I have extra money I can look for older dates. It makes the hunt a little more flexable based on my current situation.[/QUOTE]
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