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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;desertgem, post: 551450, member: 15199&quot;]Do not use any of the homebrew concoctions unless you are a chemist. Do not use anything you might find in the kitchen or garage. Chemical &quot;dips&quot; contain sulfuric acid and sodium thiosulfate solutions in specific concentrations. Best bet for nonchemists is to purchase &quot;jeweluster&quot; ( old name) E-Z-Est ( new name). It isn&#039;t only a &quot;time&quot; or &quot;number&quot; of dips, but the combination of both. Over dipping can be hard to control with a full strength commercial dip. Best to dilute some to half or 1/4 strength and dip fast and rinse, look, repeat if absolutely necessary. </p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp;&nbsp; You know you are removing surface silver with the chemical, and the shorter the flow lines get, the less the cartwheel and luster. There is <span style="color: Red"><b>ALWAYS </b><span style="color: Black">an effect on the surface, just make it minimal. When the flow lines get close to the level of the coin, it will have no cartwheel and a flat &quot;dead&quot; surface.</span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="color: Black"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="color: Black">You can also use aluminum electrolysis&nbsp; with sodium bicarbonate ( check google), but same effects.</span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="color: Black"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="color: Black">This is not a recommendation to &quot;dip&quot;, just if you are going to do it, this might help.:whistle:</span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="color: Black"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="color: Black">Jim</span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="color: Black"></span></span>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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