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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Clawcoins, post: 3979196, member: 77814&quot;]So ... as soon as a die starts getting used it starts to wear (think of a car tire, it doesn&#039;t magically go from 100% tread to 20% in one short trip).&nbsp; Then it slowly continues to wear until it becomes unbearable for the quality inspectors and they have the die(s) replaced.&nbsp; At what point of your description in the die wear does the &quot;light impression&quot; occur?&nbsp; and what occurs at all the other &quot;phases&quot; of die wear.</p><p><br /></p><p>This EXCLUDES any mechanical type of odd visual doubling (the die bouncing, shifting, etc).&nbsp; Deterioration makes the elements (letters, numbers, etc) get enlarged by various means which, for less experienced, looks like doubling.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you had ALL the coins from a single machine using single dies you could technically put them in order (or batches) of if they were early all the way to when the die was retired.</p><p><br /></p><p>This is assuming you get all the dimes right after manufacturing BEFORE they enter circulation.&nbsp; Circulation &quot;wear and tear&quot; which may consist of any and everything can cause for deterioration/ wear /damage.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1047407[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Both sides give us an idea of what is happening with the coin.&nbsp; One side, really doesn&#039;t even need a response because we can&#039;t see the back side unless it&#039;s totally obvious like die deterioration / mechanical doubling, etc.</p><p><br /></p><p>It&#039;s best to take an in-focus, good lighting picture of each coin individually front and back. Yes, it&#039;s work but it gives us the proper venue to properly analyze a coin.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>The more you slack, the more slack answers you can expect.&nbsp; When you learn more then you won&#039;t have to post until you really think you have something.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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