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<p>[QUOTE="Lehigh96, post: 610844, member: 15309"]Missie,</p><p><br /></p><p>All good questions. Most of your questions can be answered by reading my thread about the use of photoshop.</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.com/forum/t41839/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/forum/t41839/">http://www.cointalk.com/forum/t41839/</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Since I wrote that thread, I changed from using an 8 megapixel camera to a 10 megapixel camera. I have also switched from OTT lights to two fluorescent bulbs in goose neck desk lamps. With the fluorescent bulbs, I have found that the camera pre-set white balance works the best, although it does tend to result in a light golden hue even on mostly white coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>Please remember that diffused lighting eliminates the luster on a mint state coin and I only recommend using it for circulated coins, deeply toned coins with muted luster, or obtaining a photo that concentrates on color on those hard to capture toners. I always use diffused lighting when taking photos of toned proof coins. There really is no other way to get the color to show. Some collectors don't like the way diffused lighting makes proofs appear because it destroys the contrast, but I think it shows the surfaces and details better. </p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickels/JeffersonNickel1942-PSilverNGCPF-11.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickels/JeffersonNickel1942-PSilverNGCPF-12.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>I think that it is important to remember that every coin is different and will require different lighting, angles, and distance in order to achieve the best results. I would highly recommend Mark Goodman's book "NUMISMATIC PHOTOGRAPHY" to anyone who is serious about taking quality coin photographs. My images have improved about 200% since purchasing that book.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Lehigh96, post: 610844, member: 15309"]Missie, All good questions. Most of your questions can be answered by reading my thread about the use of photoshop. [URL]http://www.cointalk.com/forum/t41839/[/URL] Since I wrote that thread, I changed from using an 8 megapixel camera to a 10 megapixel camera. I have also switched from OTT lights to two fluorescent bulbs in goose neck desk lamps. With the fluorescent bulbs, I have found that the camera pre-set white balance works the best, although it does tend to result in a light golden hue even on mostly white coins. Please remember that diffused lighting eliminates the luster on a mint state coin and I only recommend using it for circulated coins, deeply toned coins with muted luster, or obtaining a photo that concentrates on color on those hard to capture toners. I always use diffused lighting when taking photos of toned proof coins. There really is no other way to get the color to show. Some collectors don't like the way diffused lighting makes proofs appear because it destroys the contrast, but I think it shows the surfaces and details better. [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickels/JeffersonNickel1942-PSilverNGCPF-11.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickels/JeffersonNickel1942-PSilverNGCPF-12.jpg[/IMG] I think that it is important to remember that every coin is different and will require different lighting, angles, and distance in order to achieve the best results. I would highly recommend Mark Goodman's book "NUMISMATIC PHOTOGRAPHY" to anyone who is serious about taking quality coin photographs. My images have improved about 200% since purchasing that book.[/QUOTE]
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