Coin Talk is wonderful site for descriptions, definitions and opinions about doubled die and their "stages". Having said that, sometimes the way it is described can actually confuse a person. Trying to visualize the mechanical action can be challenging especially in a modern world dominated by non tangible things like programs and digital technologies. You can sense the younger generation have difficulty visualizing and understanding mechanical processes. I read the below few paragraphs and felt compelled to share. Its a simple and very easy way to understand the basic mechanical process of "how" it happens. Understanding the basics of "how" and wrapping your head around it can seriously aid a newbie in determining if it is indeed possibly a doubled die. Understand the short description below and you will enjoy the hunt much much more. I read very enthusiastic threads by people who have posted dozens of coins thinking they are true DDs leading to some of them saying "Im giving up" after being told time and time again it simply isnt what they think. With a basic understanding of "how", the frustration of constantly finding fools gold can be reduced significantly leading to a much more enjoyable hobby!!! -------- Doubled dies are a result of the way in which in the United States Mint's dies are created. Before 1997, die pairs (hammer die and anvil die) were made by hubs that contained the raised design elements that were intended to appear on the coin. The blank dies were heated (to soften them) and then were pressed against the hubs to transfer the design from the hub to the working dies. One impression was not enough in every case to transfer the design elements from the hub to the die, so multiple impressions were required to transfer enough of the design. For this reason, after the first impression was made, the die was reheated and prepared for a second impression. The mint workers would use guides to align the hub and the working die perfectly to prevent overlapping, or a doubled die. It is when mint workers failed to align dies properly during this process that doubled dies were produced. In many instances three to four impressions were required, which could but rarely led to tripled and quadrupled dies. Modern coining methods have vastly reduced the frequency of these varieties due to the use of a single squeeze hubbing method during die creation, but doubled dies in modern United States coinage are still occurring. With the new die making process, implemented after 1996, dies only required one impression of the hub to transfer all of the design from the hub to the die. But it has been discovered that the pressure created is so great, that some dies tend to slightly rotate during this process.
The confusion doesn't lie with how doubled dies occur. The confusion is a matter of knowing the difference between a true doubled die and machine doubling or a true doubled die and die deterioration doubling or a true doubled die and the reflections on the mirrored surfaces of a proof set. Some people just can't see the forest for the trees! It would be much better if these people didn't have visions of dollar signs dancing in their head! ~ Chris
I think it was an "a-ha" moment for me in a sense. When looking at a coin and seeing "flat shelf like doubling" I knew that was an "eliminating" feature but for a long time just couldnt understand why. When I visualize a hub being pushed into a die....being backed out then pushed in again a second time it helps me visualize "why". Visualizing the "curved" surface of a letter on a penny. Pushing into one spot then pushing it again...it will not create a "flat shelf like doubled device". You cant get "flat and shelf like" from a curve. Understanding that helps me when looking at the surface of a coin. That flat doubling has to come from something else happening. Even if I dont understand machine doubling or any of that, it helps me form a better opinion of a coin being a true doubled die. Where this hobby throws me for a loop at times is the photos of doubled dies on VV and the others....I cant see the doubling at all even when I try to navigate the "stages"....tilted, rotated, etc...its still tough. I hate reading in the description "extra thickness" because it seems so subjective simply considering how any metal ages and wears over time. For example, a 1919 nickel thats been in existence for 100 years in storage, under water, in a pocket, through miles of tracks in counting machines yet thickness not recognizable to the unaided eye comes into play. Thank the coin Gods for experts that can look at a decent picture and tell you what it what!
