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Dbl Mint mark is these coins worth selling?
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<p>[QUOTE="Kevin Mader, post: 3973052, member: 106826"]The 1943 in the Whitman folder appears to be a plated specimen; this is incredibly common so when buying these, you have to be sure which you are spending on. An original UNC Steel Cent is worth more than a plated one. The 1957 looks to be covered in either silver paint...or mercury. If it's mercury, handle with care. The Lincoln series appears to have all the dates for the series, just not all the mints (e.g., the 1909 VDB is there, but not the 1909S VDB). No mystery there as most of the semikey/key LWCs are from the Denver and San Francisco mints. The coins you have there are common and hold the value you can assign from the Red Book. Note: RB values are inflated for the most part. For actual value, your LCS will have the gray sheets and can pinpoint a value for you. To be honest, if the coins aren't XF or better (for the most part), you can't expect but a few cents over face value (the most valuable will be the 1909's and the teens and 20's). Slabbed coins can be looked up at a number of locations on-line, but for the common stuff, try searching eBay for the completed (sold) specimens comparable to what you have. You'll see what the market is willing to pay. Throw out the low and the high accepted bids where practical. This should eliminate the desperate sellers and buyers.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Kevin Mader, post: 3973052, member: 106826"]The 1943 in the Whitman folder appears to be a plated specimen; this is incredibly common so when buying these, you have to be sure which you are spending on. An original UNC Steel Cent is worth more than a plated one. The 1957 looks to be covered in either silver paint...or mercury. If it's mercury, handle with care. The Lincoln series appears to have all the dates for the series, just not all the mints (e.g., the 1909 VDB is there, but not the 1909S VDB). No mystery there as most of the semikey/key LWCs are from the Denver and San Francisco mints. The coins you have there are common and hold the value you can assign from the Red Book. Note: RB values are inflated for the most part. For actual value, your LCS will have the gray sheets and can pinpoint a value for you. To be honest, if the coins aren't XF or better (for the most part), you can't expect but a few cents over face value (the most valuable will be the 1909's and the teens and 20's). Slabbed coins can be looked up at a number of locations on-line, but for the common stuff, try searching eBay for the completed (sold) specimens comparable to what you have. You'll see what the market is willing to pay. Throw out the low and the high accepted bids where practical. This should eliminate the desperate sellers and buyers.[/QUOTE]
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