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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;medoraman, post: 1309439, member: 26302&quot;]Personally I would grade your top coin a gF due to the good detail in lower relief, versus F for the second coin. I understand what you are saying, but prefer to bypass all of the slippery slope arguments and simply net grade a coin based upon preserved details. To me it prevents all of the con men trying to claim weak strike, worn die, etc to newer collectors. Percent of detail remaining is an observable, quasi measurable fact, and sidesteps many possible manipulations and I believe gives a truer picture of desirability to a buyer. In US coins, if you buy an EF coin you truly do not know what you have, since there could be terrific detail remaining, or the coin could look like a F because of &quot;soft strike&quot;. I simply prefer cutting through the BS and if a coin looks like a F grade it a F regardless of causation. Hammered coins are not expected to have perfection in striking like machine struck, this is why errors on ancient coins are LESS valuable than perfect strikes, and is further cause to value a good strike more highly.</p><p><br /></p><p>Sorry, stepping off the soapbox. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Chris[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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