Message:

<p>[QUOTE=&quot;digitect, post: 1495471, member: 38157&quot;]Mostly small cents, but some silver of other denominations starting about 1860. Some where nearly new when they were preserved by my father, other older ones I have less info on how they were originally collected. Nearly all came from circulation or mint bags and so had some level of degradation when they went in, but I&#039;ve not noticed visible toning by eye. Certainly under 30x or more power there would be signs of corrosion evident but I wasn&#039;t sophisticated enough in those days to document conditions to compare to today. I&#039;m hoping my efforts now will be a better basis for those that inherit it.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Yes, I certainly understand this and did not mean to imply that my (pretty standard) methods halted corrosion. However I do believe reducing direct contact with these corrosives via Mylar and storage in temperature and humidity moderated conditions limits aging as much as is reasonable short of museum archival methods. Certainly much better than the evil cardboard &quot;hole&quot; folders responsible for the original posts toning!</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>You understood correctly. Cardboard holders with mylar facings prevent coins from having any contact with paper. The mylar is actually a complete sheet wrapped around the coin in final condition with the cardboard wrapping that. With the three exposed edges stapled it is unlikely that any dust can pass through.</p><p><br /></p><p>Some manufacturers produce low quality holders in which the cardboard dust is everywhere. Anyone who has purchased these know that they are packaged in stacked fashion with the cardboard face of one holder pressed against the mylar face of the next. Not good, I&#039;ve never understood why they don&#039;t reverse every other one for a mylar-mylar condition. In any case, I use from my local dealer (don&#039;t even know the brand) that seem to be nearly dust-free but I always lightly wipe the inside off with a clean cotton glove before pocketing the coin. I also use ultra-fine permanent markers or fine ink pens (both by Sharpie) for marking the outsides believing this can&#039;t bleed through the mylar. My view is that stamp and printer inks as well as label adhesive are just as risky although less convenient.</p><p><br /></p><p>Mylar flips of pure mylar avoid paper altogether and in my view might be a bit better, but are too expensive for many thousands of coins. I have been debating whether to shift to these but there is the problem of conveniently marking and storing them. I think sliding a paper into the opposite side degrades the method down to standard cardboard holder and they don&#039;t stack well in boxes so I have resisted.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>It&#039;s possible I&#039;m trying to convince myself that my efforts to date are the best reasonable for preserving my collection, but I honestly don&#039;t know what I would change. This has by now drifted a bit off topic of the thread, but I have been trying to avoid toning and damage so fervently that the original post showing &quot;beautiful toning&quot; shocked me off my chair![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

Your name or email address:

Do you already have an account?

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

Stay logged in