Dansco 7070 Type Set - The Beginning of a new challenge...

There are two approaches.
Most buy the commonest of each type in the highest grade they can afford.
Others try for rarer dates and examples.
When I win Lotto, I will do a Dansco with the rarest of each type. 1909 S VDB Lincoln, 1916D Mercury, etc.
Another way is to capture all the different mints. Dahlon

You can find many of the moderns in change or rolls. You can buy a year proof set or uncirculated to fill in many slots too. Perhaps your birth year?
If you have a LCS that is reasonable, its better to buy the higher priced stuff there. So you can see it.
If not, coin shows are good too. And you can find them online. There are many small or part time dealers who are not trying to pay the mortgage from their profits.
Ebay and Amazon are out th

 

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I have been working on the 7070 for a few years. Progress is slow and expensive because everything is EF or better. Just added a near UNC 1874-S Trade dollar and a 1837 capped half dime. I am down to the things that are going to be expensive. I have been trying to find a gold type page for a year.

It's fun because I study one coin, buy it, then move on to the next.

Wish the album wouldn't turn my silver though.

 

Ere

Murph,
Its addictive, isnt it?
I got all the cheap moderns in high grade. But as you write, this raises the standard somewhat!
Older and rarer coins are outrageously expensive in UNC and shocking in proof

I think XF-AU is just about right.
Given the high cost of obsolete coins, MS and proof are too expensive.
Also, Dansco albums are not truly archival. Heaven forfend if you damage a MS or proof and ruin its value.
Last, circulated coins can be handled. As long as you dont get carried away. Allowing you to enjoy your collection in hand, and your kids/grandkids, etc, to do so also.
People only see the most common stuff now. There is no bill higher than $100. $2 bills are scarce and people see them rarely enough to think they are fake.
Silver dollars, even Eisenhower dollars, are unknown. Same with Kennedy halves. Most will go a lifetime not seeing silver.
So, Type Coins are fascinating to most being able to hold them is memorable.

 

I'm one of those "perpetually working on a type set" collectors, but I'm doing things a little differently myself. I'm not concerned about grade or rarity per se; rather, I just want a nice looking set. So, basically, I'm focusing on eye appeal and neat varieties. Color is great, if possible, too. And, I'm actually not putting the coins in the album, just using it as a guide. Most of my type set coins are MS, toned, and slabbed, now. My lowest grade one is a VF-35 Seated Half that has some nice album toning.

Yeah, it's funny. In the PCGS set registry, they weight the Draped Bust Large Cent the same as the Classic Head, which I find silly. I bet if you walked the floor of any major coin show looking for both coins in comparable grade with good eye appeal, you'd probably find 3 Draped Bust cents for every Classic Head you ran into. So many Classic Head Cents just have junky surfaces and poor eye appeal.

 

Bullseye!
A few years back, when I came into a bit of money, I went looking for a Classic.
Oh, the junk!
Even the ones that technically graded higher, were culls with a details grade
I did find a very nice one. Smooth, clean planchet. Very nice, even color and detailed.
It is possibly Late Die State, but how do you tell that from wear?
Its primary flaw is that its off center. Not unusual then.
It cost $700 and is the single most expensive coin in my collection.
I will probably sell everything, as I am a dad now and never get to look at them any longer and cannot justify the expense
Sigh!

 

Very! I'm okay with some pages looking different than others. For instance, halfs from the walking liberty to the clad Kennedy are all bright and shiny, as are the commems. On the half dimes page though, more natural silver toning. I guess I could get extremely OCD about tone as well as details and I'm somewhat programmed in that direction anyway, but I'm giving myself a pass as long as I can see the design details.

I have the same problem with the early large cents, finding them uncorroded. I'll probably need to replace a couple of those when I get all the holes filled. I'll do that at a coin show or with a dealer, for some reason, I need to see those coins in hand to judge. I got the examples I have at a coin show and for the grade, they were probably the priciest, although I was just beginning the set and at the time I was content to settle for a G-4 or a G-8.

 

ddddd: Nice, it encourages me to go back and work my 7070, thanks!

 

Minor update...I replaced the State Quarter I had (Unc Nevada with the following Nebraska)

 

The only question about the color is the process that was used to get that color.

 

True; I always knew it was AT but I liked the look of this one. I bought the coin a few years back and finally got around to cracking it for the album.

 

Newest update: I upgraded my Barber Half from a heavily circulated example to a VF (the cleaning is obvious, but the overall details are much nicer than the prior example I had):

 

I have a cleaned half dime with exactly that tone, got it for the same exact reason too, so many details! It makes you wonder what the coin looked like before it was cleaned, probably crud hiding all the details and not a coin anyone would look twice at.

I've never submitted a coin, but doesn't the grading service offer conservation services? It makes me wonder if the coin was badly corroded, then they cleaned it, saw all those amazing details and then submitted it. Otherwise, why not submit it and allow the TPG to do the conservation. I probably don't understand the process, but its an amazing coin. Great addition to the set!

In other news, next week I'll go on the hunt for my twenty cent piece. Wish me luck! From what I'm seeing, its going to be a budget buster.

 

I used the seller’s photo for the Barber; in hand, the cleaning is more obvious and I think your theory could be what happened (someone wanted to get rid of the dirt that had accumulated over the years).

As for conservation from the slabbing services, it can be expensive and is usually not worth the money (especially if the coin isn’t worth at least several hundred dollars).

My thought is that this coin might have even been cleaned a while back or by a previous owner (and not the person who sent it in for grading). It’s also an example of a coin that really didn’t need to be slabbed since the cost of grading didn’t add much to the overall value.

And best of luck on your 20 cent piece! Those are fun coins and if you’re patient an example under $100 is very attainable (in VF or XF details; a problem free VF/XF would run slightly above $100).

 

I'm fine with a details coin. Our approach on the album is very similar, almost exact as a matter of fact. I agree slabbing the half wasn't necessary but it makes it better for you, no authenticity worries, no grade speculation and every detail is visible, good strike on that one, particularly the obverse. Congratulations!!!!

And hopefully I'll find a nice XF in the range you quoted.

 

Here's the half dime I was referencing, I couldn't tell it was cleaned by the seller's photos, I apologize ahead of time for the blurriness on the reverse photo, I'm using a photo stored on my phone, I need to retake that side when I get the chance.

 

That's a nice one @Murphy45p and a perfect example to place in the album.

 

I got my 20 cent piece! Another crackout coin, what do you think?

 

@Murphy45p

XF details?
Nice coin....I see some cleaning though.
A perfect candidate for the Dansco.

 

Exactly my plans, crack it out and put it in the Dansco. This is the type of coin I typically try to find for the album. It actually graded PCGS genuine AU details.

 

@Murphy45p I like it! Congrats on the addition to your type set!