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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;-jeffB, post: 3596377, member: 27832&quot;]If the weight is right, then either they&#039;re real silver or they&#039;re thicker than normal. Can you compare them to a nice new pocket-change clad quarter and see if they&#039;re about the same thickness? If they&#039;re noticeably thicker, that&#039;s a bad sign. (Specific gravity would be a better test, but that&#039;s fiddly and error-prone.) They&#039;ve already passed the magnet test (not silver-plated iron), but could still be silver-plated copper.</p><p><br /></p><p>The S on the 1932 is definitely funky, and looking back at them I&#039;m realizing that the wing detail is <i>way</i> too soft relative to the rest of the coin&#039;s state.</p><p><br /></p><p>Of course, if the 1932&#039;s are fake, that raises the question of whether <i>any</i> of them are real. At $20, even if only the eight most common dates are real, you&#039;re covered.</p><p><br /></p><p>Can you flip one of the 1964s and one of the 1932s, making them ring, and see if they <i>sound</i> different? (Do it over a bed or another soft surface, just in case we&#039;re wrong!)</p><p><br /></p><p>Edit: and even if they&#039;re <i>all</i> base-metal fakes, I think you&#039;ll have gotten more than $20 worth of learning out of this by the time you&#039;re done... <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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