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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Hobo, post: 407284, member: 11521&quot;]Toad,</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>You really enjoy muddying the water don&#039;t you?&nbsp; <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I don&#039;t know exactly where to draw that line. My opinion is when something on a coin has been altered but most of the genuine features remain it is an altered coin. (Example - The reverse of that 1944-D Lincoln that was altered to a 1914-D (the date was altered, not the reverse) is still a genuine Lincoln Wheat reverse.) </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Take the 1913 Barber Quarter that had a mintmark added. I call that an altered coin. The mintmark was added but the rest of the coin is genuine. If you removed the added mintmark you would have a genuine coin.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>But when a coin is recoined into another series that gets a little stickier. I would say it would depend on whether the recoining was officially authorized or not. If the government ran Mercury dimes through the coin presses to make Roosevelt dimes and Congress had authorized it I would say those are genuine dimes. (NOTE: I think this would be impossible because the Mercury dimes probably would not fall into the collar like a normal planched because they are slightly larger in diameter due to being struck in a collar.)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If a person did the same thing (in reverse) - run Roosevelt dimes through a coin press with Mercury dime dies to create Mercury dimes - I would say those are counterfeit because 1) they were struck without proper authorization and 2) they were created to deceive.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If this could be done the final product would not be very convincing. I am sure the original design would show through just like error coins that have been double-struck.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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