Could you Grade my Jeffersons?

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

Thank you @GDJMSP for help.
Thanks to all you for posting your comments. I'm always learning from you Experts.

 

That is the only coin you showed that is worth grading. My initial impression was MS66 6FS but depending on how accurate your photos are, it has an outside chance at MS67 6FS.

Here are your problems. You need 5 coins to submit or you need to find someone willing to piggyback your coin on their submission. Then the coin needs to get the grade you are after in order to realize any value. Lastly, you would need to find a buyer willing to spend hundreds of dollars on a registry coin that is only a conditional rarity because nobody actually submits Nickels from the year 2000.

 

Thank you for your analisys @Lehigh96. In really, I just wanna know if worth to send any of these coins to certificate, for saving it in a special place to send (in future) when I have more coins that deserve it. I have more coins (Dimes and Quarters) which (I believe) could be MS 66 to 68, but I need first take good photos.
My costs, from Brazil, to send to certificate are very expensives, though.

 

Not cheap from anywhere. Probably your best bet would be to find a coin dealer who has membership and is sending coins in and then you could piggyback on him. Good luck.

 

Good idea @Kentucky. I'm going to look for somebody that be a membership here, but I do not think I'll find him. Thank you anyway.

 

Were the dies reworked before or after 2000? (It's in a thread here somewhere. 1994?) If it was before, there's no full steps designation. As the coins are supposed to exhibit full steps.

 

For those CRH or stacking nickels the rule of thumb that I use are the triangle under the roof on the building on the reverse and dates before 1964 when the mintages exploded. If they are not at least that good I release them back into circulation. If the OP paid only $70 for $62 or so face value he got a good deal and can upgrade any poorer examples.

 

Looks like all have full steps.

 

Yes. Was exactly this reason why I posted the thread. I'd chosen among of the 126 Five Cents, all those that had 6FS. I saw another coins that are 5FS, but preferred post those with 6FS. I have Dimes that are FT, but can't take good photos to show to you yet.

 

OMG, I am older than Green!!! Glad I am more younger looking

 

It was before, all coins in this era should have FS. I believe that it was in the early 90's that Nickels with full 6 steps are common. The 5 step coins are harder to find, still relatively easy considering the mintages. But who wants those?

 

I agree, and I wouldn't pay the value paid for that coin

 

I think it was 1994, but I am too lazy to search for it.
If the coin above is supposed to have full steps,
what is the point of designating it as having full steps?
The point of labeling a coin FS is because it is very rare. All of the modern
Jeffersons have FS. Just take any circulated modern nickel out of your pocket
and look at the reverse. Full steps.

 

Well, missing full steps due to strike incompleteness is virtually non existent, but you still have coins that have marks across the steps. Those coins are absolutely worthless from a registry perspective no matter how good their surfaces are.

 

You have to be really, really discriminate when grading.

If you go to the PCGS Photograde
https://www.pcgs.com/photograde#/Jefferson/Grades
Then compare and write notes on the difference between:
FR02 compare to MS68
then AG04 to MS67; G06 to MS66; etc
and keep comparing like that and write notes on each one getting closer and closer grades.

When you are done, then try comparing coins about 4 grading steps apart, up the grading scale. such as FR02 to VG08; VG10 to VF20; VF30 to XF45; XF45 to AU55; etc.

When you are done with that try comparing coin 2 steps apart, up and down the grading scale. Keeps notes on all of it.

It may either drive you batty, or teach you how detailed you have to be in your analysis. for instance, pay attention to the fine details (not smoothed over) of the hair and every minute detail of everything on the coin including luster.

 

Wow!!! This could drive me crazy. I will never understand how to classify a coin, especially after this explanation.

 

you could buy a book on grading. But that will probably drive you crazy.

It's like any other hobby stuff that is based on "grading"
how does one grade cars in a car show, an upper echelon car show?
it's all in the details ....

If was just trying to use the PCGS grading pictures for one to learn the visual differences. You start with the extremes. Then work closer then normally you can be more picky as you get closer between grades visually.

 

I think you will learn more simply by analyzing hundreds/thousands of photos from Heritage archives like you have already done. The problem with this is that coins in hand look much different from their oversized photos. What you might have to do is photograph any new acquisition and then compare your photos with those of already graded material. Over time, you will be able correlate a coin in hand to its correct grade.

 

Good explanation. I liked it. Nothing better than experience to make you an expert.