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<p>[QUOTE="johnmilton, post: 3556469, member: 101855"]When I was a dealer, buying raw coins and sending them in for grading was one way to get a better price and make more money. I didn’t cheat the people from whom I purchased those coins. In fact, some them were dealers who were selling coins at the shows. I would go over the coins and buy them if I thought they had potential.</p><p><br /></p><p>When you buy and sell raw U.S. coins that you considering to have graded, there are two factors that lower the trading price. First, you have to take into consideration the money you are going to have to spend to get the coin graded, which includes the grading fees and the postage. Second, you have to figure in the risk factor if the coin comes back with a lower grade than you expected. These are some of reasons why raw coins are cheaper.</p><p><br /></p><p>I don’t send coins in for grading any more. I buy them in the holders that I want. I would advise most collectors to do that. When you are dealer who is sending in a lot of coins for grading, the law of averages smooths things out for you, BUT you must know how to grade coins and spot problems BEFORE you start playing the game. Once you have weeded out the problem coins, chances are you will come out ahead on the grading game. For a collector, who sends in fewer coins, there is a lesser chance that the averages will work out for you. One big mistake or unfair grade can sink you financially in the grading game.</p><p><br /></p><p>People ask how dealers can afford to sell common date, graded coins at low prices, sometimes less than the grading fees. The answer is they make their money on the high grade “hits” which come back in high grade holders. Let’s say you get an MS-69 or a PR-70. You sell that coin for big money that more than covers the cost of the “losers.” The dealer blows out the coins that don’t quite make the grade at cheap prices, and that’s where the collector can fill out his or her collection or registry set with certified pieces.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="johnmilton, post: 3556469, member: 101855"]When I was a dealer, buying raw coins and sending them in for grading was one way to get a better price and make more money. I didn’t cheat the people from whom I purchased those coins. In fact, some them were dealers who were selling coins at the shows. I would go over the coins and buy them if I thought they had potential. When you buy and sell raw U.S. coins that you considering to have graded, there are two factors that lower the trading price. First, you have to take into consideration the money you are going to have to spend to get the coin graded, which includes the grading fees and the postage. Second, you have to figure in the risk factor if the coin comes back with a lower grade than you expected. These are some of reasons why raw coins are cheaper. I don’t send coins in for grading any more. I buy them in the holders that I want. I would advise most collectors to do that. When you are dealer who is sending in a lot of coins for grading, the law of averages smooths things out for you, BUT you must know how to grade coins and spot problems BEFORE you start playing the game. Once you have weeded out the problem coins, chances are you will come out ahead on the grading game. For a collector, who sends in fewer coins, there is a lesser chance that the averages will work out for you. One big mistake or unfair grade can sink you financially in the grading game. People ask how dealers can afford to sell common date, graded coins at low prices, sometimes less than the grading fees. The answer is they make their money on the high grade “hits” which come back in high grade holders. Let’s say you get an MS-69 or a PR-70. You sell that coin for big money that more than covers the cost of the “losers.” The dealer blows out the coins that don’t quite make the grade at cheap prices, and that’s where the collector can fill out his or her collection or registry set with certified pieces.[/QUOTE]
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