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<p>[QUOTE="toned_morgan, post: 4586702, member: 97258"]Well very first thing I would say is use the D5600. It is a DSLR and it is just better overall. Also, it seems what is causing you problems is your lighting. Coins are naturally more attractive when you can see their luster and when they seem to have lots of luster. For that reason, lighting is extremely critical. </p><p><br /></p><p>First, you want to go to a room with no other light leaking in. Close your windows/doors and basically black the room out. Then, you want at least two strong lights. I have some big IKEA lights but I changed the bulbs out to 13 watt 1575 lumen lights at a 5000k temperature. Basically, all that means is that it is a very very bright light bulb with a lightly blue color. I have three, and when the three are on, I have to wear sunnies otherwise I would be blind. So make sure you get extremely bright bulbs at a temperature around 5000k.</p><p><br /></p><p>Another thing is you want to use a tripod. You didn't mention tripods of any sort in your list of equipment, so make sure you get one or find one to use. Make sure you get a nice and sturdy one and then screw in your camera tightly. Then you want to use a self timer. This is so that there is absolutely no shake after you press the shutter button. This is another critical thing because you lose detail otherwise. </p><p><br /></p><p>Now camera wise, get your lens in manual focus and then use live view on your D5600 to zoom in digitally on a letter or some details. Carefully turn the focus ring until it is sharp and not faded or blurry. Then for your settings, you'll want to go to manual mode (yes MANUAL, not auto). Set your ISO to the lowest it can be, which I think is 100 for the D5600. Set your aperture to around F7. Then, use live view to judge your shutter speed. With my three lights, ISO at 100, and aperture at F7 ish, my shutter speed tends to fall at around 1/125 to 1/80. Then for the lens, I would use the 55-300 or the 18-55 at 55. The thing with 18-55 is that it tends to distort the image and make things on the edge stretch. Our eyes see at around 60mm with crop factor, so for your camera it would be around a 50mm length.</p><p><br /></p><p>Some more quick tips, use a microfiber cloth to wipe down the coin/holder and get rid of all finger prints or dust. Unfortunately, you can't do anything about scratches, but try to get as much stuff out of the way. Also, make sure not to get your camera or yourself in the reflection of the slab or the surface of the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now for editing the images, I prefer to use Apple Photos. Try to do the least amount of sending to other devices to keep the highest resolution. Then just play around with all the settings to really understand what they do. Once you have the hang of those, you can usually save most images even if they are too dark or too bright.</p><p><br /></p><p>And that's about it for simple images. Now if you want to do more editing for a composite or to get rid of the background, then I would suggest you make an account on Canva.com. To get rid of the background, I usually put my image in Canva and then use the circle elements to cover the background. Make it a color that is not on the coin but easy to identify. Download the picture. Then go to <a href="https://onlinepngtools.com/create-transparent-png" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://onlinepngtools.com/create-transparent-png" rel="nofollow">https://onlinepngtools.com/create-transparent-png</a> and drag and drop your image. Enter the color that you chose for the background and enter a percentage of similarity. On the right, the image with a transparent background will appear. Download that image. Then you can make a template on Canva to make composites with, for example, the obverse, reverse, and the label.</p><p><br /></p><p>Here are my best pictures from using all these methods.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1135828[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1135829[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1135830[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="toned_morgan, post: 4586702, member: 97258"]Well very first thing I would say is use the D5600. It is a DSLR and it is just better overall. Also, it seems what is causing you problems is your lighting. Coins are naturally more attractive when you can see their luster and when they seem to have lots of luster. For that reason, lighting is extremely critical. First, you want to go to a room with no other light leaking in. Close your windows/doors and basically black the room out. Then, you want at least two strong lights. I have some big IKEA lights but I changed the bulbs out to 13 watt 1575 lumen lights at a 5000k temperature. Basically, all that means is that it is a very very bright light bulb with a lightly blue color. I have three, and when the three are on, I have to wear sunnies otherwise I would be blind. So make sure you get extremely bright bulbs at a temperature around 5000k. Another thing is you want to use a tripod. You didn't mention tripods of any sort in your list of equipment, so make sure you get one or find one to use. Make sure you get a nice and sturdy one and then screw in your camera tightly. Then you want to use a self timer. This is so that there is absolutely no shake after you press the shutter button. This is another critical thing because you lose detail otherwise. Now camera wise, get your lens in manual focus and then use live view on your D5600 to zoom in digitally on a letter or some details. Carefully turn the focus ring until it is sharp and not faded or blurry. Then for your settings, you'll want to go to manual mode (yes MANUAL, not auto). Set your ISO to the lowest it can be, which I think is 100 for the D5600. Set your aperture to around F7. Then, use live view to judge your shutter speed. With my three lights, ISO at 100, and aperture at F7 ish, my shutter speed tends to fall at around 1/125 to 1/80. Then for the lens, I would use the 55-300 or the 18-55 at 55. The thing with 18-55 is that it tends to distort the image and make things on the edge stretch. Our eyes see at around 60mm with crop factor, so for your camera it would be around a 50mm length. Some more quick tips, use a microfiber cloth to wipe down the coin/holder and get rid of all finger prints or dust. Unfortunately, you can't do anything about scratches, but try to get as much stuff out of the way. Also, make sure not to get your camera or yourself in the reflection of the slab or the surface of the coin. Now for editing the images, I prefer to use Apple Photos. Try to do the least amount of sending to other devices to keep the highest resolution. Then just play around with all the settings to really understand what they do. Once you have the hang of those, you can usually save most images even if they are too dark or too bright. And that's about it for simple images. Now if you want to do more editing for a composite or to get rid of the background, then I would suggest you make an account on Canva.com. To get rid of the background, I usually put my image in Canva and then use the circle elements to cover the background. Make it a color that is not on the coin but easy to identify. Download the picture. Then go to [URL]https://onlinepngtools.com/create-transparent-png[/URL] and drag and drop your image. Enter the color that you chose for the background and enter a percentage of similarity. On the right, the image with a transparent background will appear. Download that image. Then you can make a template on Canva to make composites with, for example, the obverse, reverse, and the label. Here are my best pictures from using all these methods. [ATTACH=full]1135828[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1135829[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1135830[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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