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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Publius2, post: 13243315, member: 105571&quot;]That looks like a pretty good outline.&nbsp; You certainly have the pertinent references.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>Comments and probably nothing you haven&#039;t already considered:</p><p>&nbsp; </p><p>1)&nbsp; Regarding the Greysheet pricing target, Greysheet is only for slabbed coins and doesn&#039;t really apply to raw coins.&nbsp; I won&#039;t get into a debate over whether or not Greysheet pricing actually means anything, everyone has their own opinion on that.&nbsp; </p><p>2)&nbsp; Greysheet is dealer-to-dealer pricing and you&#039;ve accounted for that with your 10 to 20% allowance.&nbsp; But I have found that Greysheet pricing is not very good these days for any coin that is better than average for the grade.&nbsp; So, if you are targeting better coins for the grade, you may need/want to allow for that in your thinking.</p><p>3)&nbsp; I think you may be missing something significant by not including either a target grade or, alternatively a target cost for the collection.&nbsp; If your intention is to acquire coins that appeal to you regardless of their grade, then that&#039;s fine.&nbsp; But I&#039;ve found that it helps to have a target range of grades.&nbsp; When I decided to collect Capped Bust half dimes by die marriage, I decided that anything R-4 or more common would be collected in grades of AU-55 to MS-63.&nbsp; Rarer coins would be acquired in grades commensurate with an acquisition cost of about $1500.&nbsp; For R-6 and R-7 coins that means that some of these coins would have to be low-grade and in Details holders and even then I might have to increase my budgetary target.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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