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<p>[QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 792173, member: 16510"]<b>Generally problem free coins in VF-30 to XF-45 are the</b></p><p><br /></p><p>Generally problem free coins in VF-30 to XF-45 are the best performers and the best representation of coins from the 1800's.</p><p>Now I mean problem free depending on series which will vary a bit from series to series.</p><p>Problem free means no easily seen or harsh cleanings, no scratches to speak of and above all else no rim dings. Rim dings are murder for classic coinage as much as poison is to babies.</p><p>Original surfaces with nice skin for type.</p><p>Color that is real and not inhanced or subdued in any way.</p><p>Remember there are VF's and then there VVVVVVFFFFF'SSSSS.</p><p>You may, depending on your budget think this to low a grade but overall it will give you the very best chance at completion and the coins (down the road) that people love to buy!</p><p>These are the coin that are not to nice (and not to overpriced) that show U.S. history in your hands. The Barbers esp. will be very hard to get in these grades in certain dates/years as will Capped Bust and early seated stuff.</p><p>Be willing to pass on 8 out of 10 coins you look at - find the coins the seller does not really want to sell. These are the coins that you can look at overall and be very glad you took the time to aquire - it shows all who see your collection class and restraint.</p><p>One more thing with type sets. You can and in this grade level afford to go for the harder type coins. Pick out tough date/mintmark combinations that other will have settled on the common ones. For instance instead of a 1886 Indian go for 1871 or 1866 for your choice, instead of the copper nickle 1863 go for the 1861 an so on.</p><p>Make your set something special and keep some notes for others to further explaine your choices/reasons in case your gone and they have to choose to understnd it's (the set) meaning and value.</p><p>That's the best advice I can possible give you - I wish I actually followed it myself, well, someday.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 792173, member: 16510"][b]Generally problem free coins in VF-30 to XF-45 are the[/b] Generally problem free coins in VF-30 to XF-45 are the best performers and the best representation of coins from the 1800's. Now I mean problem free depending on series which will vary a bit from series to series. Problem free means no easily seen or harsh cleanings, no scratches to speak of and above all else no rim dings. Rim dings are murder for classic coinage as much as poison is to babies. Original surfaces with nice skin for type. Color that is real and not inhanced or subdued in any way. Remember there are VF's and then there VVVVVVFFFFF'SSSSS. You may, depending on your budget think this to low a grade but overall it will give you the very best chance at completion and the coins (down the road) that people love to buy! These are the coin that are not to nice (and not to overpriced) that show U.S. history in your hands. The Barbers esp. will be very hard to get in these grades in certain dates/years as will Capped Bust and early seated stuff. Be willing to pass on 8 out of 10 coins you look at - find the coins the seller does not really want to sell. These are the coins that you can look at overall and be very glad you took the time to aquire - it shows all who see your collection class and restraint. One more thing with type sets. You can and in this grade level afford to go for the harder type coins. Pick out tough date/mintmark combinations that other will have settled on the common ones. For instance instead of a 1886 Indian go for 1871 or 1866 for your choice, instead of the copper nickle 1863 go for the 1861 an so on. Make your set something special and keep some notes for others to further explaine your choices/reasons in case your gone and they have to choose to understnd it's (the set) meaning and value. That's the best advice I can possible give you - I wish I actually followed it myself, well, someday.[/QUOTE]
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