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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;rld14, post: 459975, member: 16133&quot;]You really can&#039;t compare the 1916 and the 1917, different beasts, different designs.&nbsp; There&#039;s pretty substantial differences between a 1916 and a 1917 (Type 1 that is) that are well worth knowing, the easiest ones to spot are the distance between Ms Liberty&#039;s head and the rim and some design elements of the bottom of her gown by her feet.&nbsp; The easiest and quickest test is on the head, on a 1916 Ms Liberty&#039;s head is running into the dash that&#039;s between the dots and dashes of the design inside the rim.&nbsp; On a 1917 (Type 1 of course) the dash above Ms Liberty&#039;s head is about equidistant between her head and the edge of the rim.&nbsp; This is how a clever 10 year old snagged 2 1916s by looking through those &quot;bargain&quot; dateless SLQs at shows <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>Heritage has sold several Low Grade 1916s with the dates worn off that were slabbed as 1916s because of this.&nbsp; 1917 Type 1s were from totally redone dies and tend to come better struck than any other coin in the series, 1916s were struck like garbage, however they were only in production for 2 weeks maximum and only in Philadelphia so this is why I assume they never bothered to rework the dies, they were probably already working on the 1917 dies by then.</p><p><br /></p><p>That coin that did $51,750 is about the best strike of a 1916 that I would think exists.&nbsp; Was it &quot;worth&quot; $52k?&nbsp; Not technically, but like has been pointed out on here lately, that&#039;s a coin that was a condition rarity.&nbsp; You likely had several big collectors with deep pockets on that coin and I bet it doesn&#039;t surface anytime soon.&nbsp; Or, to quote a friend of mine, &quot;Go find another&quot;.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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