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<p>[QUOTE="kanga, post: 458745, member: 9270"]Each collection of mine was done to different criteria.</p><p> </p><p>For instance, my <u>WLH set</u>.</p><p>CRITERIA: Complete the set. Best coin for under $100.</p><p>So the grades range from G to MS.</p><p>A few cost me more than $100.</p><p>The DETERMINING FACTOR about collecting this way: Money balanced against completion.</p><p> </p><p>My silver Roosevelt <u>business strike set.</u></p><p>CRITERIA: <u>Matched</u> set; slabbed by PCGS or NGC; MS-66 (a few are MS-66FT.)</p><p>My silver Roosevelt <u>proof set</u>.</p><p>CRITERIA: <u>Matched</u> set; slabbed by PCGS or NGC; MS-67.</p><p>Actually at the moment I'm one coin short in each of the sets.</p><p>DETERMINING FACTOR: They're inexpensive and I had never done a matched set.</p><p> </p><p>My <u>type set</u>.</p><p>CRITERIA: They changed over time.</p><p>1. XF or better (two or three coins are VF; enough design remaining so that people can get a good idea of what they looked like in the original.)</p><p>2. $500 or less (later upped to $1000, and even then a few cost more.)</p><p>3. Oldest design to be Liberty Head (older are too expensive; there's a couple older exceptions if they were inexpensive enough.)</p><p>4. All slabbed, preferably by PCGS or NGC (I've got one ANACS and one SEGS in the process of being replaced.)</p><p>DETERMINING FACTOR: Money balanced against a showcase set. I decided this set would be my pride and joy, so the criteria were a bit more flexible and the wallet opened a bit wider.</p><p> </p><p><u>Bottom Line</u>: It's your collection. You can do whatever you wish.</p><p>And each can be different.</p><p>Just do a bit of research first. The Red Book is a good start for that.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="kanga, post: 458745, member: 9270"]Each collection of mine was done to different criteria. For instance, my [U]WLH set[/U]. CRITERIA: Complete the set. Best coin for under $100. So the grades range from G to MS. A few cost me more than $100. The DETERMINING FACTOR about collecting this way: Money balanced against completion. My silver Roosevelt [U]business strike set.[/U] CRITERIA: [U]Matched[/U] set; slabbed by PCGS or NGC; MS-66 (a few are MS-66FT.) My silver Roosevelt [U]proof set[/U]. CRITERIA: [U]Matched[/U] set; slabbed by PCGS or NGC; MS-67. Actually at the moment I'm one coin short in each of the sets. DETERMINING FACTOR: They're inexpensive and I had never done a matched set. My [U]type set[/U]. CRITERIA: They changed over time. 1. XF or better (two or three coins are VF; enough design remaining so that people can get a good idea of what they looked like in the original.) 2. $500 or less (later upped to $1000, and even then a few cost more.) 3. Oldest design to be Liberty Head (older are too expensive; there's a couple older exceptions if they were inexpensive enough.) 4. All slabbed, preferably by PCGS or NGC (I've got one ANACS and one SEGS in the process of being replaced.) DETERMINING FACTOR: Money balanced against a showcase set. I decided this set would be my pride and joy, so the criteria were a bit more flexible and the wallet opened a bit wider. [U]Bottom Line[/U]: It's your collection. You can do whatever you wish. And each can be different. Just do a bit of research first. The Red Book is a good start for that.[/QUOTE]
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