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<p>[QUOTE="Oldhoopster, post: 8076728, member: 84179"]Both are large dates. As you look at more coins, identifying them will become easier, but it takes time and practice. IMO, both look to be copper, but weight is the best test (once again, looking at lots of coins helps you see subtle characteristics that can help with the id but it takes time and study). Spend some more time looking at the 2 and 8. It will eventually jump out at you.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1401898[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>And if you think this is challenging, just wait until you start getting into true doubled dies vs mechanical doubling and die deterioration doubling (the last 2 are common and add no value). Read the posts on CT, book mark the links to the goid reference sites posted, and study them. That's the best way to get good at finding errors. The only short cut I know is to listen to experienced numismatists that can point you in the right direction[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Oldhoopster, post: 8076728, member: 84179"]Both are large dates. As you look at more coins, identifying them will become easier, but it takes time and practice. IMO, both look to be copper, but weight is the best test (once again, looking at lots of coins helps you see subtle characteristics that can help with the id but it takes time and study). Spend some more time looking at the 2 and 8. It will eventually jump out at you. [ATTACH=full]1401898[/ATTACH] And if you think this is challenging, just wait until you start getting into true doubled dies vs mechanical doubling and die deterioration doubling (the last 2 are common and add no value). Read the posts on CT, book mark the links to the goid reference sites posted, and study them. That's the best way to get good at finding errors. The only short cut I know is to listen to experienced numismatists that can point you in the right direction[/QUOTE]
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