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<p>[QUOTE="Kaleun96, post: 8264312, member: 92635"]Good tips! I recently wrote up a guide on inexpensive coin photography that uses some similar ideas as well, though aimed at those who only have cellphone cameras. If anyone is interested <a href="https://artemis-collection.com/photography/coin-photography-on-a-budget/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://artemis-collection.com/photography/coin-photography-on-a-budget/" rel="nofollow">you can find it here</a>.</p><p><br /></p><p>One thing to mention upfront is that it recommends a particular lighting technique to help make the coin "pop" by using a small ring-light that is placed between the camera and coin that creates a lot of contrast without shadows. This method is at the other end of the spectrum to what <a href="https://www.cointalk.com/members/jb_depew.88227/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.cointalk.com/members/jb_depew.88227/">jb_depew</a> is using here (i.e. a large diffused light source). It's mostly a matter of taste, or the coin you're photographing, which you might prefer but I think both are worth experimenting with as the lighting, more than anything else, really makes or breaks a photo.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>A quick note on the gray card, I would probably recommend you don't buy one of these cheap ones. The example in my photo below is a bit extreme but these cheap gray card sets are typically way off true white, black, and 18% gray. I often found they were just more hassle than they're worth and I'd have to manually correct the white balance anyway. A piece of white A4 paper actually worked just as well in the end.</p><p><br /></p><p>As you note, the gray cards are also typically used for exposure correction and while they can be used for white balance correction, <a href="https://www.xrite.com/service-support/18graycardversesawhitebalancecard" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.xrite.com/service-support/18graycardversesawhitebalancecard" rel="nofollow">it's better to use a white card for this</a> (after ensuring the exposure is correct so the white isn't blown out).</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1457957[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Kaleun96, post: 8264312, member: 92635"]Good tips! I recently wrote up a guide on inexpensive coin photography that uses some similar ideas as well, though aimed at those who only have cellphone cameras. If anyone is interested [URL='https://artemis-collection.com/photography/coin-photography-on-a-budget/']you can find it here[/URL]. One thing to mention upfront is that it recommends a particular lighting technique to help make the coin "pop" by using a small ring-light that is placed between the camera and coin that creates a lot of contrast without shadows. This method is at the other end of the spectrum to what [URL='https://www.cointalk.com/members/jb_depew.88227/']jb_depew[/URL] is using here (i.e. a large diffused light source). It's mostly a matter of taste, or the coin you're photographing, which you might prefer but I think both are worth experimenting with as the lighting, more than anything else, really makes or breaks a photo. A quick note on the gray card, I would probably recommend you don't buy one of these cheap ones. The example in my photo below is a bit extreme but these cheap gray card sets are typically way off true white, black, and 18% gray. I often found they were just more hassle than they're worth and I'd have to manually correct the white balance anyway. A piece of white A4 paper actually worked just as well in the end. As you note, the gray cards are also typically used for exposure correction and while they can be used for white balance correction, [URL='https://www.xrite.com/service-support/18graycardversesawhitebalancecard']it's better to use a white card for this[/URL] (after ensuring the exposure is correct so the white isn't blown out). [ATTACH=full]1457957[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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Coin stand-off for shadowless photos
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