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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Larry Moran, post: 1332279, member: 4580&quot;]Changing the lighting, then looking through the camera is not the best answer.</p><p>Whenever possible, witness the changes in lighting in real time, through the lens (of a DSLR).</p><p><br /></p><p>Watch for changes in lighting on hair and lettering for example, where small changes</p><p>can have major effects.&nbsp; You are seeking results that look natural, accurate and well lit.</p><p><br /></p><p>In your top photo in the OP, glare from lighting is reflected from slab, and affects parts of the coin.</p><p>With slabbed examples, try to avoid light reflecting from the slab.&nbsp; If that can&#039;t be avoided,</p><p>crop later to eliminate reflections or glare on slab.</p><p><br /></p><p>You&#039;ve made a very good start.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you can shoot straight down, you&#039;ll have a better chance of being square to the coin.</p><p>You can use bubble level to level surface where coin will rest, then on back of camera.</p><p><br /></p><p>Of course, most everybody needs a tripod or copy stand to take great photos of coins.</p><p>The camera&#039;s self-timer, or a remote release will be helpful.</p><p>Eliminate any source of camera movement, including shutter, mirror, lens and body.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I am wondering what you mean by &quot;pic heavy.&quot;&nbsp; Thanks.&nbsp; : )[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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