Coin Photos Lighting Requirements

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by tpsadler, Feb 27, 2016.

  1. physics-fan3.14

    physics-fan3.14 You got any more of them.... prooflikes?

    Well, that is instantly a better picture than the last one you posted.
     
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  3. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    The tilt has helped the glare thanks .. now on to magnification of image
     
  4. brg5658

    brg5658 Supporter! Supporter

    If you're using a tripod, there is no reason not to use the absolute lowest ISO (i.e., ISO 100). As for your shutter speed, you should be able to use an auto determined shutter speed (with bracketing of -1/3 or +1/3 if necessary). There is no reason to set the shutter speed manually. Also, if you're not already, you should be using a delayed timer of 2 or 10 seconds (depending on your camera, most DSLRs have both), so that you are not physically touching the camera at the time that the shutter/camera takes the image.

    Of course, some of this discussion is moot since almost all coin photos get downsized for web display, and you'll not notice substantial differences at this level of minutiae unless you're pixel peeping.
     
  5. physics-fan3.14

    physics-fan3.14 You got any more of them.... prooflikes?

    There should be a setting somewhere in your camera to take images in "raw" form, or have the camera perform some processing or compression. You may see this along with some number of pictures available (for example, in high compression your card can hold 3000, medium 2000, low 1000). You want to choose the lowest compression, highest resolution setting available.
     
  6. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

  7. physics-fan3.14

    physics-fan3.14 You got any more of them.... prooflikes?

    I take all of my pictures while tethered to my computer. I don't actually touch the camera at all. Clicking my mouse will take the picture. Thus, no time delay necessary.

    Next time I take some pics, I'll try other ISOs and see what I like.
     
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  8. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    Done that already these pictures were shot @ Fine Quality JPEG 2946 x 2695 converted with PhotoScape to 800 Max DPI then downloaded to forum
     
  9. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    The tilt worked wonders with an increase of F Stop to accommodate the DOF .. Orientation of this coin what also needed as the Light @ 10:30,1:30 and @ 6:00
    How the light reflected from the images did wonders along with the tilt
     
  10. rmpsrpms

    rmpsrpms Lincoln Maniac

    Much better. You might want to move the light at 6:00 farther from the coin, or maybe add some diffusion to it. Overall contrast is a little low, and the image is a little over-exposed. Try -2/3 EV to bring down the exposure while changing no other settings.
     
  11. physics-fan3.14

    physics-fan3.14 You got any more of them.... prooflikes?

    Sometimes, I solve this problem by, quite simply, only using 2 lights (at the appropriate angles).
     
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  12. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    I should have brought this up week ago thanks. You ppl have made my day ..

    Ok this image is 1/3 EV late one was +1 so I thought you only wanted to remove 2/3 EV .. Moved 6:00 Light further away with downward angle about 30 Degrees
    1960D 1-3 Exp f25 Tilted.JPG
     
  13. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    3 of those lights are now on order :) thanks @rmpsrpms
     
  14. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    I can see that would be necessary with some type coins.
     
  15. rmpsrpms

    rmpsrpms Lincoln Maniac

    Better, but still a little over-exposed. Try making the EV -1/3. Not 1/3 less, but actually -1/3.

    What Style settings are you using in the camera? If you've made no changes vs the stock settings, you are probably using Standard 3,0,0,0. I would recommend going with 3,-2,0,0 to reduce contrast a bit, which will help compensate the reduced EV.
     
  16. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    I have made so many changes to this puppy in an attempt to get good pictures all I know for sure is ...it is different than stock but no user settings have been changed ..
    When I attempted the -1/3 the image was very dark .
     
  17. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    Not sure what you mean by Standard 3,0,0,0 the Camera is a Nikon D7200 and haven't seen anything like those settings
     
  18. anderspud

    anderspud Active Member

    I'm a firm believer in a diffuse light source to get an unbiased photo of a coin, which is needed to avoid shadows and highlights. Although Tpsadler states she is attempting to tone down highlights, they are prominent in the gorgeous image that is posted. Its highlights of the numbers and letters might be mistaken for DDs. Northern lights offer the least biased biased light. This can be a problem for me in Seattle much of the year, but if a single bright light is not too close, its flux will act diffused. In this arrangement, that should be the only major light source. And with the high ISO achievable with digital cameras, this should not be a big problem.

    Jim
     
  19. physics-fan3.14

    physics-fan3.14 You got any more of them.... prooflikes?

    @tpsadler , you have made amazing improvements already in the course of this thread. These cameras are incredibly complicated, and it takes a great understanding of the settings to really maximize the output. (As for Ray's most recent suggestion, if you have a user's manual, it will tell you how to update the setting he suggests. I have a Canon, so cannot guide you on this one).

    Keep up the good work!
     
  20. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    The question for this 1960 D Lincoln on the L of Liberty and G of God is what appears in real life with 10x as a Double Die but the real question of this point is to get a good enough photo to ask this question ... and He --> tpsadler is looking for good photos :)
     
  21. tpsadler

    tpsadler Numismatist

    This user manual is next to worthless unless you are accustom to reading very fine print :) Nikon really saved on this document :)
     
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