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<p>[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2639475, member: 1892"]....and the beauty of this type of lustrous brown copper is, I required no diffusion whatsoever to shoot these images. Just two Jansjos bearing directly at the coin from the usual 10:00 and 2:00, about 4" from the coin which was more distant than usual. I was even able to use ISO100 (the "slowest," least-grainy ISO setting) @ 1/25 for the obverse and 1/30 for the reverse (reverses almost always use a shorter exposure, all other parameters being equal). Nikon El-Nikkor 75mm (a $40 lens) @ f/5.6. Shot with a 10MP Canon Rebel XS which cost me $84 used from Adorama.</p><p><br /></p><p>This is a 100% crop (full size) from the above image; the coin has a die crack nearly the whole way around the perimeter:</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]582065[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>If I desire more magnification, I just lengthen the bellows. No need for a "microscope." Of course, almost all lenses are only happy within a narrow range of magnification, and they become far less sharp when you exceed it. So, for situations where greater magnification is required, I just pop in my Nikon 4 Plan microscope objective which cost me all of $25.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]582067[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>A couple points regarding that one: With increased magnification comes greatly <b>decreased</b> depth of field. This is a law of physics you'll run into with whatever tool you're using to shoot, more or less. The above shot was just a "proof of concept" to test a new lighting source, and it's about the bare <i>minimum</i> of magnification available with the 4 Plan, below its' most comfortable magnification level. In a case like this, one will need to focus stack images - shoot a succession of images with the focus point shifted slightly in the vertical each time, and combine them using software (which can be had for free) afterward. That's where the "devil in the details" comes with this type of equipment - if you want professional-level results, you need to invest professional-level work into the project. This image would probably require a stack of 25-30 separate images to have the whole depth of the field in sharp focus. It's not like full-coin images, which are darn near automatic.</p><p><br /></p><p>[USER=31773]@rmpsrpms[/USER]: This was lit with the lamp I mentioned elsewhere, on Auto white balance. I backed off the Blue channel completely in post (RGBCMY available channels with the Gimp), which only affected the highlights. True color correction should be easy with it. I think it's going to be an effective tool for these situations, and it's a heckuva convenient portable reading/detail lamp too. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2639475, member: 1892"]....and the beauty of this type of lustrous brown copper is, I required no diffusion whatsoever to shoot these images. Just two Jansjos bearing directly at the coin from the usual 10:00 and 2:00, about 4" from the coin which was more distant than usual. I was even able to use ISO100 (the "slowest," least-grainy ISO setting) @ 1/25 for the obverse and 1/30 for the reverse (reverses almost always use a shorter exposure, all other parameters being equal). Nikon El-Nikkor 75mm (a $40 lens) @ f/5.6. Shot with a 10MP Canon Rebel XS which cost me $84 used from Adorama. This is a 100% crop (full size) from the above image; the coin has a die crack nearly the whole way around the perimeter: [ATTACH=full]582065[/ATTACH] If I desire more magnification, I just lengthen the bellows. No need for a "microscope." Of course, almost all lenses are only happy within a narrow range of magnification, and they become far less sharp when you exceed it. So, for situations where greater magnification is required, I just pop in my Nikon 4 Plan microscope objective which cost me all of $25. [ATTACH=full]582067[/ATTACH] A couple points regarding that one: With increased magnification comes greatly [B]decreased[/B] depth of field. This is a law of physics you'll run into with whatever tool you're using to shoot, more or less. The above shot was just a "proof of concept" to test a new lighting source, and it's about the bare [I]minimum[/I] of magnification available with the 4 Plan, below its' most comfortable magnification level. In a case like this, one will need to focus stack images - shoot a succession of images with the focus point shifted slightly in the vertical each time, and combine them using software (which can be had for free) afterward. That's where the "devil in the details" comes with this type of equipment - if you want professional-level results, you need to invest professional-level work into the project. This image would probably require a stack of 25-30 separate images to have the whole depth of the field in sharp focus. It's not like full-coin images, which are darn near automatic. [USER=31773]@rmpsrpms[/USER]: This was lit with the lamp I mentioned elsewhere, on Auto white balance. I backed off the Blue channel completely in post (RGBCMY available channels with the Gimp), which only affected the highlights. True color correction should be easy with it. I think it's going to be an effective tool for these situations, and it's a heckuva convenient portable reading/detail lamp too. :)[/QUOTE]
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