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<p>[QUOTE="brg5658, post: 1532798, member: 29751"]Leadfoot: With all due respect, you're missing the most important point of rmpsrpms post. He said that ETSC makes a huge difference for <u><b>variety</b></u> shots. That means <i>truly </i>macro shots in the range of 1:1 to 4:1 magnification. For regular full-coin shots of 0.5:1 to 0.8:1 magnification, what you say is mostly correct. But, it doesn't matter how stable your mount is or if you use a time-delayed shot, in a Nikon camera the first shutter curtain "slap" happens after the time-delay and causes vibration that affects sharpness of final images even if mounted solidly and using a time-delay to avoid hand shake.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>To the OP:</p><p>I think the most important things to avoid are light tents (they make images look really flat and lifeless), auto white-balance (it doesn't work), and axial lighting (it's what I consider a "niche" method -- and rarely produces an image true to the look of a coin). Many of the people who have replied are top notch coin photographers -- take their advice and practice, practice, and practice some more.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="brg5658, post: 1532798, member: 29751"]Leadfoot: With all due respect, you're missing the most important point of rmpsrpms post. He said that ETSC makes a huge difference for [U][B]variety[/B][/U] shots. That means [I]truly [/I]macro shots in the range of 1:1 to 4:1 magnification. For regular full-coin shots of 0.5:1 to 0.8:1 magnification, what you say is mostly correct. But, it doesn't matter how stable your mount is or if you use a time-delayed shot, in a Nikon camera the first shutter curtain "slap" happens after the time-delay and causes vibration that affects sharpness of final images even if mounted solidly and using a time-delay to avoid hand shake. To the OP: I think the most important things to avoid are light tents (they make images look really flat and lifeless), auto white-balance (it doesn't work), and axial lighting (it's what I consider a "niche" method -- and rarely produces an image true to the look of a coin). Many of the people who have replied are top notch coin photographers -- take their advice and practice, practice, and practice some more.[/QUOTE]
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