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<p>[QUOTE="RonSanderson, post: 2920650, member: 77413"]I would think ring lights would be terrible, but I have not tried it myself. The light coming from all angles would reduce the shadows on the surface that you get from a 10 and 2 arrangement. The shadows are critical for imparting the illusion of depth that makes a coin photo realistic.</p><p><br /></p><p>I use 10 and 2 almost exclusively, and also move them slightly from their established positions to get a pleasing balance between lighting the fields and the devices. I am currently working through a series of Lincoln cents and rarely touch the light positions between coins. If I switch over to proofs or another series, then the lights will need minor adjustments. Unfortunately, what I see on my monitor is badly unfocused, so some of the results are guesswork.</p><p><br /></p><p>My lights are also Jansjo from IKEA, with a double layer of tissue paper taped to each one as a diffuser.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="RonSanderson, post: 2920650, member: 77413"]I would think ring lights would be terrible, but I have not tried it myself. The light coming from all angles would reduce the shadows on the surface that you get from a 10 and 2 arrangement. The shadows are critical for imparting the illusion of depth that makes a coin photo realistic. I use 10 and 2 almost exclusively, and also move them slightly from their established positions to get a pleasing balance between lighting the fields and the devices. I am currently working through a series of Lincoln cents and rarely touch the light positions between coins. If I switch over to proofs or another series, then the lights will need minor adjustments. Unfortunately, what I see on my monitor is badly unfocused, so some of the results are guesswork. My lights are also Jansjo from IKEA, with a double layer of tissue paper taped to each one as a diffuser.[/QUOTE]
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