Featured Coin Photography: Lens Commentary using Nikon D7000

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by geekpryde, Jun 6, 2014.

  1. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    If you guys already haven't figured it out, these are MaineBills coins. These are coins I am taking pictures of only, and not submitting. I'll give MaineBill the pleasure of sharing all the other 45 coins when they come back from CAC.

    I am still having real focusing issues. My camera is doing some weird stuff, I am being craxy anal about leveling and still I will get a photo where the left side is tack sharp, and the right side is fuzzy. I think my camera needs to hit the repair shop.

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    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014
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  3. Mainebill

    Mainebill Bethany Danielle

    The detail in the coins looks great especially the white ones the color in some of the toners looks kind of muted tho is that just an adjustment? I know nearly nothing about photography especially digital photography other then I'm not very good at it
     
  4. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    I'll play around a little bit, it's a balancing act between the luster and the detail and the color.
     
  5. jello_g

    jello_g Senior Member

    Coincidentally I've settled on using the Nikkor 105mm on a D7000 body as well, and have been satisfied with the results for quite some time now. Well worth the investment, as you've discovered.. :)
     
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  6. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator


    I just used this method, about to see if it pays dividends.
     
  7. josh's coins

    josh's coins Well-Known Member

    so I just use my phone camera or a nikon digital camera.
     
  8. benveniste

    benveniste Type Type

    Which is just fine for many purposes and to many tastes. On the other hand, if you want to create 28" diameter diameter prints of, say, a 2009 high relief $20 which are suitable for framing as corporate art, then the techniques and equipment discussed in this thread come into play.

    When I took on that project 4 years ago, I used a Pentax 645n medium format film camera. Today, I could do it equally well with a modern dSLR.
     
  9. kaosleeroy108

    kaosleeroy108 The Mahayana Tea Shop & hobby center

    ahh coinporn
     
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  10. dougsmit

    dougsmit Member

    I'm sorry I missed this discussion when it was current but those interested will want to study up on the term 'diffraction' which will explain why coins do not get sharper when you stop down too far. In general, a 1.6x crop camera should not be stopped down past f/8 and a full frame past f/11 unless you are willing to trade a little sharpness for the additional depth of field.
    http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm
    When you need depth of field, try using a focus stacking program like the freeware CombineZ (there are ones you pay for if you like to waste money). Finally, I can not believe anyone can keep a straight face talking about sharpness when shooting slabbed coins. Even the cleanest plastic is a lot worse than air. For that matter, don't use a filter to 'protect' your lens either. Everything between lens and subject degrades sharpness. Everything.
    The top parts below are reduced; the bottom 100% as shot but cropped to fit. Canon 100mm macro. I have very few US coins and no slabs. 05d1c1863.jpg 5ddiopotn.jpg 05dprobclem.jpg 05dus251917d.jpg
     
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  11. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    I have been playing around with templates. Coin buying is slowing, so I need to find ways to keep the hobby active without spending money.

    I basically copied a format several collectors here use. The primary benefit of this template is that you get both a Closeup of the coin AND see the certificate label with year, grade, cert#, pretty stickers, etc.

    The issue I have with my full slab shots (how I normally take them) is that too much real estate is taken up by plastic. The issue I have with simple cropped closeups is lack of details for my viewers, like varieties, grade, CAC stickers, etc.

    So, this is basically the best of both worlds. I need to retake most of my collection with closeup photos, as I mostly have slab shots that lack coin detail of the closeup shots.

    Here is some testing I did today with my version of this layout. I used Adobe Photoshop Elements (PSE) 9. 1200 x 960 pixels.

    1826-1C.jpg

    1836-25C.jpg

    1818-25C.jpg

    1972-S-$1.jpg

    1936-50C-YORK.jpg

    1876-S-50C.jpg

    1806-HALF-CENT.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2014
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  12. krispy

    krispy krispy

    I agree, the template suits viewing the coin close up and with both sides in one image file, saving us the distraction and waste of space taken up by the plastic of holders in a shot. It's not too hard to find a template or format of presenting your coins that works for you. I however, think the slab labels, when shown, can be diminished even further. Here's an example of how I handle it and to me the scale of the coin stands out more than the label. I also like to add info below the coin. In my template I try to show the coin floating in a dimensional space, as if under a spot light or elegantly hovering in presentation.

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  13. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    One reason I kept the label big is that I can clearly see the Cert number. It helps me keep track of my collection, name images, search for images, etc. I have a few thousand coin photos.

    This uses some PCGS Coinfacts photos:

    1969-D-50C.jpg

    This is an example of low-rez photos, through scratched plastic. Ouch! These need to be replaced...

    1857-1C.jpg

    Former @Mainebill coin

    1825-10C.jpg

    Don't mind me, I'm just using this thread as my personal dumping ground.

    1831-H10C.jpg

    A modern :inpain: , I'm debating keeping this one in the Type Set.

    2013-D-$1.jpg

    I like this Modern Bullion coin better:

    2012-W-$1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2014
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  14. krispy

    krispy krispy

    I don't always show off the cert number and sort of prefer not to have it included. Sometimes I see the cert number in auctioned coins sold on eBay or posted on other sights obscured. I think some people have reasons of protecting their collections by not sharing the full cert number in pictures. I understand and respect that decision.

    As for searching image files, you could also include the cert number in your file name without visually having to open and view the image file to keep track of them. I have also worked on Excel sheets with a column containing various cert numbers that are linked to image files on my computer. Clicking on the box with a cert number, opens an image file for review/reference.

    If we go an extra step, I suppose we might also try keeping a scanable tracking system using the barcodes on inserts or set up our own QR code, for example. A coin image could contain a unique QR code and be scanned by a smart phone or other reader and pull up a webpage displaying one's inventory and coin images or the coins registry set page or a TPGs cert verification page for that coin. I think there are lots of great ways we collectors have yet to track, share and reference our coins, but I'm always pleased and enjoy looking at those which someone has taken more time to present professionally as yours have been.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2014
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  15. tulipone

    tulipone Well-Known Member

    I just stumbled across this thread and read through with a great deal of interest. Lots of information to take in and lots of fantastic coin pictures. I have a couple of thoughts to add if I may.

    1. If you are going to that much trouble, don't forget to turn off any anti shake technology on the camera when using a tripod.
    2. I spend far too much money on hobbies for this to believably critical - but the Sigma results are very acceptable. Is there $1000 of difference between the lenses?

    I think that I'm going to try out LR6 when it comes out. I have been firmly Aperture since moving away from Windows and Photoshop 5.
     
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  16. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    I never really understood hiding the cert#, but I've seen it before. In this day and age of Registry sets, hiding the cert# seems more or less useless. I mean, if someone is trying to keep their coins anonymous, don't post photos of them online. :facepalm:

    In regards to Excel, I also use some sophisticated spreadsheets, and earlier in the year I had links directly to relevant images. I ended up removing that functionality, as it was too problematic for a few reasons. I am always taking new photos, renaming photos, moving photos, deleting photos, etc. It was particularly problematic for my setup, since I sync like 80,000 photos on 4 different machines, and they all have varying hard drives sizes and quantities. So on some machines, even thought the images are identical (synced copies), they were physically located at different paths on different machines, and this really broke the linking, depending on which machine I opened the Excel file on.

    I don't own enough coins to justify putting barcodes on them, but if I was a dealer, I would definitely do this. Scan coins in and out, and a lot less handwriting, and a lot more useful tracking and bookkeeping than most dealers currently do. One day, as I have said before, the smart dealers will figure this out. "One ring database to rule them all".
     
  17. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    Agreed. I have tried anti-shake (Vibration Reduction) both on and off. I don't really use it in my normal family photo settings, lets alone coins with tripod and a lot of light, but sometimes I play around to test my current setup, to see if changes should be made.

    I agree, Sigma lens has been great, and I definitely got my money out of it. I didn't buy it for coins, and it mostly sat around for a few years, but once I got back into coins it was a fantastic to have around. Is the 105mm Nikkor $1000 better, probably not. Certainly not worth it for my typical "slab" shots, but as I am now working on closeups and templates, it would come in handy. I didn't have it long enough to figure out the lighting, but I would want to use it for more than just coins. I actually really like how macro lens work as normal prime lenses for portraits of the family.

    But, to answer your question, the difference isn't so great that I dropped ~$900 on the lens yet. I can't really afford it right now, and would probably rather spend it on actual coins at this point even if I could. I really, really want to own that lens someday, maybe the wife will buy it for me. :)

    You should definitely get on board with Lightroom, it is really great. I have not used Aperture at all, but read about it on photography forums and blogs. Being a Windows user, I doubt I will ever touch it.
     
  18. dougsmit

    dougsmit Member

    While I have no reason to know anything about Nikon products (I Canon), I am very much of the opinion that the Sigma macro (especially the 180mm) is good enough that it would be useless to 'upgrade' to a Nikon product except for the purpose of impressing people who believe Nikon is better than the laws of optics allow. Certainly shooting through slab plastic would be a great equalizer as would using the images in sizes under 20x30" size (including any online use where resolution is limited by monitors rather than lenses). In general, the limiting factor of photography of any type is the photographer unless we are talking about equipment below DSLR level. Manufacturers and programmers make good money selling upgrades to people who have never learned to use the previous model. When upgrading, first ask what it is about the old system that has never produced a satisfactory image in the hands of a fully competent worker and why it is that ours are not the equal to the best. In my case the answer is never an 'it' and always just 'me'.
     
  19. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    The 105mm is definitely superior to the sigma 50mm I have, no question about it. It has absolutely nothing to do with the brand name. Nikon makes great lenses, Sigma makes great lenses. The resolution on modern DSLR has reached a point that it's beyond the entry level macro Sigma lens I have from that generation, circa 2002. The lens in this case is the limiting factor. The Nikon in question is a pro lens.

    Not to mention, working at the 105mm focal length is more conducive to coin photography, which is the real reason I was looking for a fixed focal length macro lens.

    I actually have never upgraded my camera lenses, I still own them all, and for the most part they don't overlap. I have a few primes, (fixed focal length), some wide angle zoom lenses, a medium telephoto zoom lens, a macro lens, etc.

    Again, my 50MM Sigma does like 99% of coin photography and produces above average results. I am mostly happy. Do I want the 105mm Nikon, absolutely. Is it because it has the name "Nikon" on it, absolutely not.
     
  20. carboni7e

    carboni7e aka MonsterCoinz

    I'm having a similar issue. The edges of the coin start to fade.

    [​IMG]
     
  21. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    The trick that @brg5658 posted in this thread is how I do it now, every time. Cheap, fast, easy. Mostly works to fix one part of the coin being out of focus.

    I literally just borrow a 6 inch x 6 inch mirror my wife has, so in my case, it was literally a free solution and it works like a charm.
     
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