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<p>[QUOTE="Kaleun96, post: 7996188, member: 92635"]Looking good! Once you've got the setup working for you reliably, you can start playing around with the lighting to achieve different results.</p><p><br /></p><p>Though one thing you might want to try first is increasing the shutter speed and for that you would likely need more light. A 8/5s shutter speed is quite slow and without a flash to "freeze" any movement, it is possible you're losing sharpness due to minor vibrations. I personally wouldn't go below 1/60s without a flash for macro, even when mounted to a tripod or copy stand. If you whack a 10x microscope objective on your camera, you'd be surprised how much movement there can be between camera and subject due to things like cars driving by, people walking in your house, the refrigerator on the other side of the wall, etc.</p><p><br /></p><p>ISO of 800 should be fine, though depends on the camera - for a camera from the last few years it should be no problem at all. Ideally, you'll eventually be able to bring it down to ~100-200 and the shutter speed up to 1/160s, which of course means you need a fair amount of light!</p><p><br /></p><p>I use "blu tack" like stuff as well and it's never been a problem for my coins, just be careful using it on any that have weak or delaminating surfaces. After you've pulled off the tack on one side (i.e. the side facing down), just dab it across the surface again and it should pick up all the loose pieces that initially remained stuck to the coin. You can also buy some <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA" rel="nofollow">"museum-grade" putty</a> if you want to be extra safe. I find it's not as sticky as other types, which is ideal in this case where you don't want much to hold the coin in place.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Kaleun96, post: 7996188, member: 92635"]Looking good! Once you've got the setup working for you reliably, you can start playing around with the lighting to achieve different results. Though one thing you might want to try first is increasing the shutter speed and for that you would likely need more light. A 8/5s shutter speed is quite slow and without a flash to "freeze" any movement, it is possible you're losing sharpness due to minor vibrations. I personally wouldn't go below 1/60s without a flash for macro, even when mounted to a tripod or copy stand. If you whack a 10x microscope objective on your camera, you'd be surprised how much movement there can be between camera and subject due to things like cars driving by, people walking in your house, the refrigerator on the other side of the wall, etc. ISO of 800 should be fine, though depends on the camera - for a camera from the last few years it should be no problem at all. Ideally, you'll eventually be able to bring it down to ~100-200 and the shutter speed up to 1/160s, which of course means you need a fair amount of light! I use "blu tack" like stuff as well and it's never been a problem for my coins, just be careful using it on any that have weak or delaminating surfaces. After you've pulled off the tack on one side (i.e. the side facing down), just dab it across the surface again and it should pick up all the loose pieces that initially remained stuck to the coin. You can also buy some [URL='https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA']"museum-grade" putty[/URL] if you want to be extra safe. I find it's not as sticky as other types, which is ideal in this case where you don't want much to hold the coin in place.[/QUOTE]
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