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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 3794156, member: 19463"]While I refuse to follow the trend, I do see an advantage to tiny cameras and phones. You can get away with smaller and weaker stands. dSLR's with moving mirrors do introduce vibrations requiring beefy supports. Mine is wood with triangular supports and no spindly adjustments between camera and stand. Adjustments are made by moving the coin rather than the camera. Part of me wants to buy one of the full frame mirrorless Canon cameras that can use my lenses but I don't shoot enough to justify the cost until something happens to my old 5DmkII. Today, if my camera were to fail, I would buy a Canon RP which is vastly too much camera for 99% of people who take pictures. I don't buy mint state coins or camera equivalents of uncleaned late Romans.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I have said many times and continue to believe that the best way to make something black is to stop light from falling on it. I do this with a stack of black plastic disposable flower pots that shade the ordinary black background at the bottom of a tall support so it is very out of focus. Painting the insides of this with 3.0 might make it possible to use a smaller and less complex shadow cone. I place on the top one of several holes to match the coin being photographed. The white paper ring reflects a very little light onto the edge of the coin but this sometimes make it look less than fully natural so I only use it for some coins. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1013710[/ATTACH]</p><p>When used, this rig leaves the coin in the center surrounded by a very black ring and an image of the paper reflector and top plastic in the corners that must be cropped out when the two sides are assembled. This is reduced to 1/10th the original size for posting here but is otherwise as shot.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1013714[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Then I crop and combine on a blank black field. At this point, minor adjustments of color, contrast or density can be made as necessary to make the photo a good representation of the coin. This is also where you could add fake reflections (which I dislike immensely), text or whatever you please. I crop to a 2:3 proportion so I can have 4x6" (or 20x30") prints made without cropping. I then make a reduction to 1080 pixels tall for posting online and throw away the raw files and intermediate 16 bit TIF's (Tagged Image File) images used in the process. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1013718[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 3794156, member: 19463"]While I refuse to follow the trend, I do see an advantage to tiny cameras and phones. You can get away with smaller and weaker stands. dSLR's with moving mirrors do introduce vibrations requiring beefy supports. Mine is wood with triangular supports and no spindly adjustments between camera and stand. Adjustments are made by moving the coin rather than the camera. Part of me wants to buy one of the full frame mirrorless Canon cameras that can use my lenses but I don't shoot enough to justify the cost until something happens to my old 5DmkII. Today, if my camera were to fail, I would buy a Canon RP which is vastly too much camera for 99% of people who take pictures. I don't buy mint state coins or camera equivalents of uncleaned late Romans. I have said many times and continue to believe that the best way to make something black is to stop light from falling on it. I do this with a stack of black plastic disposable flower pots that shade the ordinary black background at the bottom of a tall support so it is very out of focus. Painting the insides of this with 3.0 might make it possible to use a smaller and less complex shadow cone. I place on the top one of several holes to match the coin being photographed. The white paper ring reflects a very little light onto the edge of the coin but this sometimes make it look less than fully natural so I only use it for some coins. [ATTACH=full]1013710[/ATTACH] When used, this rig leaves the coin in the center surrounded by a very black ring and an image of the paper reflector and top plastic in the corners that must be cropped out when the two sides are assembled. This is reduced to 1/10th the original size for posting here but is otherwise as shot. [ATTACH=full]1013714[/ATTACH] Then I crop and combine on a blank black field. At this point, minor adjustments of color, contrast or density can be made as necessary to make the photo a good representation of the coin. This is also where you could add fake reflections (which I dislike immensely), text or whatever you please. I crop to a 2:3 proportion so I can have 4x6" (or 20x30") prints made without cropping. I then make a reduction to 1080 pixels tall for posting online and throw away the raw files and intermediate 16 bit TIF's (Tagged Image File) images used in the process. [ATTACH=full]1013718[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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[Coin Photography] A Blacker Black
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