Coin Care Chemical

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by BadThad, Mar 9, 2010.

  1. wunderer

    wunderer tink

    You guys are cracking me up. You will dehydrate if in water too hot for too long, or hyperthermiate (is that a word) if in water too cold for too long and turn into a prune if in just right water for an extended period. (may not really be a prune, but will look like one.)
     
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  3. wunderer

    wunderer tink

    Thank you.
     
  4. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator


    I disagree completely. Yes, there were those who frowned on cleaning back in the '60s, my grandfather was one of them and he taught me the same back in 1960.

    But even he was the first to admit that he was in the minority. His caution to me was not to allow all of those who routinely harshly cleaned their coins to influence me and change my thinking.

    Back then the majority of collectors did clean their coins, and harshly so. And they thought that what they were doing was the right thing to do.

    But over the past 50 years more and more people have become educated and seen the harm that harsh cleaning does to coins. There are still those who practice it today, but they are far, far fewer in number than they were back in the 60's.
     
    Kelly Capone likes this.
  5. BadThad

    BadThad Calibrated for Lincolns

    Why don't you just click on the link in my sig? LOL
     
  6. diamondc

    diamondc Junior Member

  7. Kasia

    Kasia Got my learning hat on

    I like how they say the machine "barks" when it detects the foreign substances......they think they have a dog to sniff it out!
     
  8. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    The coin would not be put in a regular slab. It would be put in a Genuine slab with one of two code numbers on the slab label - 94 or 97.

    94|N-4 Altered Surface - Whizzed, harsh cleaning, thumbed over
    (using a pasty substance to cover defects or alter the appearance).

    97|N-7 Environmental Damage – i.e. corrosion, coating (lacquer),
    excessively heavy toning, etc.



    The advertising firm that wrote that for them would eat up your comment like candy ;)
     
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  9. james m. wolfe

    james m. wolfe New Member

    dolce_sc2.jpg they should hire this dog
     
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  10. -jeffB

    -jeffB Greshams LEO Supporter

    Man, I'm glad this thread came back up.

    BadThad, I've gotta get around to ordering up a bottle of VerdiCare. I've got a few Liberty nickels and IHCs that look quite nice, but really want a bit of conservation.

    I finally found a copy of Coin Chemistry at the last local show, and I'm gobbling it up. Not sure I agree with everything it contains, but it's got detailed quantitative info that answers some of my long-standing questions.

    There's a lot of talk about "oil" in this thread, but only one post (from BadThad, no surprise) differentiates between hydrocarbons (mineral oil, naphtha, butane, etc.) and triglycerides (olive oil, skin grease, etc.). Both kinds of "oil" burn, dissolve organics, feel oily, and fail to mix with water. But they're vastly different chemicals. I can't imagine how hydrocarbons would interact with copper or silver under ordinary conditions -- you can keep sodium, potassium, or cesium under them with no reaction! -- but triglycerides (vegetable oils, animal fat) are another story entirely, more so because of the free fatty acids and other stuff that they usually contain.

    Maybe someday there'll be a "coin chemistry" subforum, and it'll keep me out of everybody's hair. :)
     
    Kelly Capone likes this.
  11. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    When you have seen something enough times over the years you don't need to be a chemist to know that oil is bad for coins ;)
     
  12. Mark14

    Mark14 Star Wide Receiver

    i am a sucker for dogs with blue eyes <3
     
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  13. -jeffB

    -jeffB Greshams LEO Supporter

    Quick, was it mineral oil or vegetable oil? :devil:

    P.S. Also picked up a copy of the ANA Grading Standards at the last show, largely on your recommendation. I finally realized that "which book should I get" was the wrong question, so now I'm working on "which order should I get them". :)
     
    Kelly Capone likes this.
  14. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Doesn't matter. They're both bad ;)

    Well, that depends on what you are trying to learn. But you do make a valid point for there are some books that should be read, studied, before other books.
     
    Kelly Capone likes this.
  15. diamondc

    diamondc Junior Member

    At 7:28 in the video he states if the quantity of foreign substance found is over the threshold then the coin in rejected. This leads me to think trace amounts are acceptable.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mA3nZeADTBg
     
  16. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Probably so. But trace amounts are not going to be the result of coin doctoring but rather the result of accidental contact.
     
  17. diamondc

    diamondc Junior Member

  18. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

  19. rlm's cents

    rlm's cents Numismatist

    It says;
     
  20. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Yeah I know it says that. So what ? What he's talking about doing is putting Blue Ribbon on a coin that is already a problem coin (one with carbon spots on it) in order to try and keep more spots from developing and making the coin worse than it is.

    He is not in any way suggesting that Blue Ribbon be used on problem free coins. He is merely saying that since the coin already has problems, using Blue Ribbon isn't going to hurt it anymore than it is already hurt.

    In other words, a problem coin is a problem coin is a problem coin.
     
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  21. rlm's cents

    rlm's cents Numismatist

    I am pretty sure he is not talking about using it on carbon spots and I do not even believe he is talking about using it on problem coins but rather how to keep coins from becoming problem coins. However, he does not say anything about certifying them.
     
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