I've had this coin for about a year. I noticed that the coin's surface appeared to be deteriorating in the NGC slab. Here's the coin removed from the slab: So, I cracked it open and immersed it in distilled water for about a couple of months. I also used small quantities of alkalai washing soda. Much of the green deposits were removed this way, but other areas remained stubbornly in place. Then I noticed that these area were quite shiny. I immersed the coin in 100% acetone, and those areas disappeared. It seems that some kind of coating was applied to the coin, possibly clear nail polish. Here is the coin now. There are still some green patches left, but they seem quite hard, not powdery, so I do not think this is case of bronze disease. I have the coin out and it is being monitored for any changes. Of course it is very early in the game and things can change, especially with this type. I see that there is a wax, Renwax, on the market. Would it be advisable to use it on this coin? Thanks
I certainly would. It’s also removable so if you don’t like the results just take it off. In my experience ren wax evens out color, and provides a nice sheeny surface. it won’t really fill in any gaps, but it will usually even out the color such that minor defects are less noticeable. I have tested Jax Patina Restoration Products but they don’t do too much for me. Often, Ren Wax will do a much or more than the special patina products. long answer short, YES, I would apply Ren Wax
Problem with Rexwax is it can make the surface less contrasted, which is the exact opposite of what you want here. So little design is left, you want as much contrast to highlight the design. If you have a similar coin try it on that first to see if you like the look. I use Renwax on weirdly toned coins to lessen the contrast of toning, but the coins still have strong designs.
That’s a good point. When I use Lye I often end up with crazy colors. Ren wax evens out the color transitions, but you are right that’s NOT what we want here. hmmm, what other options would there be?
The OP could try Renwax and see if he likes the look on a similar coin, but i think he did a great job on removing some green and this is about as good as it will get. Put it in a Safe-T flip. Renwax can be removed, but on a special coin like this I would not try it until you know you like the look.
I will mention that I have done some limited (and not well controlled) experiments with linseed oil. Linseed oil is the "oil" in oil paints. It starts off liquid, but through reaction with the air, it hardens to a plastic.
Thank you all for the advice. Does anyone have a before and after photo of coin treated with Renwax? Thanks
Here is an example of before and after Renwax... I find that it gives a coin that "wet look" which bring out nice detail which I think would help your coin. I always bake the coin in the oven for about 20 minutes to remove all moisture then apply the wax. The wax is very easy to apply if the coin is warm as well.
Thanks. I placed an order for Renwax last night. When I receive it, I might try it out on a lower grade bronze coin. The last time I tried using wax on a coin was back in 1989, when I used beeswax on a Byzantine follis. I remember heating the coin in the oven, applying the wax and then handling the coin like a really hot potato. It sill looks good all these years later.
Thank you. I've been using PVC-free 2 x 2 flips for some time now. A couple of years ago I went through the entire collection throwing out suspect flips, removing the coins first, of course, and replacing them with PVC-free flips. If any coin is sticky, I bathe it in 100% acetone for several minutes, dry, examine and repeat if needed.
I agree with @Clavdivs.....The most important thing when using any kind of sealant is what you're sealing within! The base coin MUST be completely moisture, and any other contaminent, free!....
I would agree IF you use one this is critical. I have seen too many coins look worst "after" though, so I would say deciding IF you use one at all is the first step.
That's similar to the anonymous follis that I treated with beeswax many years ago - minimal change, really. I guess the coin really didn't need this treatment in the first place.
Here's my example of ren wax As you can see, it evened out much of the splotchy reddish colors and gave the coin a nice glossy sheen.
Thanks. I guess I will give Renwax at try when it arrives. I have a lower grade Cleopatra VII 80 drachma that I will try this wax on first.
@hotwheelsearl Nice results!!! I have a bronze that I just restored, and I'm seriously contemplating using Renwax. Three questions: 1. Did you warm up the coin first in any way? 2. Did you place a little glob of wax directly onto the coin and then spread it around, or, did you just apply a thin coating of wax on a finger and rub it on the coin? 3. After the application did you use a cloth or brush to 'buff' the coin in any way?
1. I did not. I have heard of people baking coins for a little while in order to guarantee that absolutely no moisture remains. However, I just left my coins out overnight to air dry. I'm sure that works just as well. 2. I applied the wax sort of like how you'd apply vaseline to your lips - I stuck my little finger in the wax to get just a thin film, and then spread it around the coin in a circular motion. "Wax on wax off" style. 3. I did use a microfiber cloth to buff it out. You can choose not to, but the buffing will really help appearances a LOT - it gives the coin a great sheen and shine, and helps even out any areas of too much or not enough wax on the coin. Please post your coin with a before and after if you decide to do it! It won't hurt unless you apply it to a wet coin (it seals in moisture). As long as the coin is dry you're good to go
I completely forgot to provide an "after" Rewax photo. I did two applications, due to the rough surfaces of this coin. Overall, the appearance is improved and the coin now has a somewhat glossy surface. The wax was applied cold, with a Q-tip (a mistake) and dried over 24 hours before the second application. I said mistake because the Q-tip left fibers of cotton on the surface that took a short while to remove, no big deal really. Cleo and I thank you all for your advice!
Thanks for the detailed replies @hotwheelsearl !!! I will post before/after pics this weekend. (It's a Hadrian, from Aelia Capitolina, with an eagle-on-a-standard reverse.)