As part of my education about coins, I have bought several cleaning solutions and experimented on pocket change. I can definitely recommend this - but only for pocket change. Some of what I have learned is that cleaning results definitely depend on the material. Copper cleans easily but does not give an "original" red color, and you lose that nice brown on older coins. Clad coins seems to be cleanable with pretty harsh solutions with little easily detectable ill effects. I have been surprised at how difficult it is to detect scratches from the soft brass brushes. My general advice is to use the mildest method that gives acceptable results. Start with a dipping solution. Then go to the stronger stuff if that does not work for you. Just please, please be very sure the coins have no numismatic value, because you are destroying the collectability of then.
Thanks for the tip. After looking through the colletion and re-reading this thread, I've decided to leave almost all of them alone.
Noooooooo Don't use plastic bags for storing coins!! Most types of flexible plastic contain PVC - this is a chemical that allows the plastic to be flexible - it is the stuff you smell from a new shower curtain. It is also the stuff that, in warm humid climates, causes nasty green spots on coins ... and that green stuff eats at the metal causing permanent damage. It usually takes a few years but the damage is forever. Many "flips" that are made for storing coins contain PVC. Be careful - make sure they say "PVC free" and don't have that odor about them. If they are nice and flexible, it isn't what you want. Somewhere from stiff and brittle to hard plastic is desirable. Almost all cardboard 2x2s are OK and they are very inexpensive. Almost all paper and cardboard envelopes have acids in them. Don't let them come in direct contact with coins!
You should be able to use plastic food bags, such as ziplogs to store coins. Such plastics are not suppose to have the harmful chloride in it.
I don't want to start a big argument but at the same time I don't want to see coins ruined. After a bit of searching on the web I can't find anything really definitive about plastic bags and PVC. But there were these articles: http://www.checnet.org/healtheHouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=185 and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_wrap They, like others, basically say that PVC is present in at least some plastic bags and wraps that are used for food - Perhaps there are some that don't have PVC but I'm not about to risk a coin (or anything else) in an improvised container when the proper containers (2x2s) are so cheap (actually cheaper than zip-lock bags)!
Indeed you should use 2x2 non-pvcs, but if you are talking about 1000+ coins, I find that method extremely unpraticle. Especially if they are really cheap coins, to put them in 2x2 and store them in folders will take up a massive amount of space. If the idea of using plastic doesn't appeal to you, you might as well store them in glass containers.
If one is storing large quantities, to the point that space is an issue. There is absolutely nothing wrong with paper coin rollers being used as long term coin storage. The end coins in a roll will tarnish (sometimes in an attractive pattern) but the rest of the roll will be well preserved.
hi all,this is all new to me, how long is a guick bath in acedtone,and how do you recommend drying them? thanks.RoB
A quick bath would be - "Don't leave it in overnight". Take it out and lay it on a soft clean cloth, it will dry itself. Acetone is extremely volatile and also extremely flammable. Safety is important with this stuff. If in doubt, do it outside well away from any thing which could ignite it.
What I've done was just a quick 15-30 second wash in acetone followed by a rinse in distilled water. Then allow the coins to dry on a soft cotton cloth (old tee shirt). I was preparing proof and brilliant uncirculated coins prior to submitting them for grading and slabbing. The bath and rinse were to insure the removal of any oils from any finger touches the coins might have received. Best to make sure they were clean prior to locking them up in plastic for years. If you are trying to remove something more resistant such as PVC contamination, an overnight soak (or longer) might be appropriate. Just be sure to do it in a covered container or the acetone will all evaporate! You can do more damage with these washes than you will prevent if you are not very careful. As was said, acetone is extremely flammable. BE CAREFUL! Also don't get it on you - use tongs to dip the coins - be careful of containers - Acetone will eat most plastics.
First of all go to the hardware store and get pure acetone. Then place small amounts, perhaps 1/2" deep in the bottom of small containers. Use glass if possible as acetone will disolve some plastics - or at least test it first. Dip your coins in the first, leave them for a minute or so, then place into the next container and finally into a 3rd container. I might start off with some of the less valuable coins and the dirtiest ones - to let you sort of get the hang of things. And be sure to do this in a very well ventilated area !! Now when the acetone begins to get cloudy or dirty, and it will - change it and keep on going. But it is best if each coin is given a final rinse in completely clean acetone. Then rinse in distilled water, not tap water, place the coins on a soft cotton cloth and let them air dry, perhaps turning the coins over once or twice. Do not rub, slide or move the coins around on the cloth, just gently sit them down.
Is it OK to remove dirt/oils/greases that are in the recesses of a coin, or can you send it to be graded and THEY wiill do that? Or would they return it ungraded? If its ok for me to try to remove this dirt and grime, what should I use?
well I asked that becasue I have a 1920D Liberty half i think i could get a EF grade at and was wondering if I should send it. Would they clean the grime off?
Only NCS will do anything to alter the surface and appearance of a coin. Their "conservation" techniques are extremely sophisticated cleaning methods, which should be used primarily for coins that are in the early stages of environmental damage. If there has been extensive environmental damage, such as copper verdigris, even NCS' techniques will frequently reveal surface damage that will devalue the coin. Never forget that except in the case of PVC slime, the absolute only way to alter a coin's appearance is to alter its surface, which means make it less original, which means make it worth less (and sometimes worthless).
Will acetone work on corroded buffalo nickels? I am just curious, I am definetely not in the practice of cleaning coins but I have some junk buffalos that I would like to see what It would do.
Acetone absolutely will not reverse corrosion on buffs, or any other coin. If it is PVC-caused corrsion, the acetone treatment comes too late, and if it is any other type of corrosion the acetone is useless.