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cleaning silver coins with aluminum foil, baking soda, and boiling water.
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<p>[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2360365, member: 1892"]Did you even see the post I reacted to, or was it removed before you read it? For the record, I'm <b>extremely</b> angry at myself for losing it to the extent that I did, but I used far cooler language than I wanted to. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>If I offended you with that, please accept my apologies. It's not my normal demeanor, but the post I reacted to was totally inflammatory and trollish. Worse yet, it rationalized and lent credence to a cardinal violation of sensible numismatics.</p><p><br /></p><p>The thing which bothers some about older threads being resurrected is that the knowledge contained therein might have changed in the meantime, making the thread spread disinformation. Moreover, the newer members or unregistered readers just happening by might be intimidated by the thought of having to go through a multipage thread, and bypass it, losing the chance to learn.</p><p><br /></p><p>As regards the topic at hand: The process is called "reduction." It works. Trouble is, it *only* reverses the process resulting in the silver sulfide "tarnish" on the coin, and it'll result in a pretty blotchy coin if anything else is clinging to the coin which the reduction doesn't remove. The formerly-tarnished surfaces will look obviously cleaned by comparison. The same could happen with untarnished surfaces which have "aged" for different reasons than the silver sulfide process - the result will be a coin which looks obviously cleaned.</p><p><br /></p><p>This, like every successful conservation technique, is a <i>very niche use case technique</i>. I use it <b>only</b> (and almost <b>always</b> instead of dip) in those few situations where dip might actually be realistically called for - Mint State coins (or in rare cases sliders) which are otherwise untouched by any contaminant.</p><p><br /></p><p>Heavycam.monstervam, your Franklin might be a good candidate for learning the technique. You're only out a few bucks if it blows up in your face. If you attempt it, mix the baking soda and hot (no need for "boiling") water <b>first</b>. The salt mentioned in some sources is most normally used during electrolysis, a similar process to this one.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2360365, member: 1892"]Did you even see the post I reacted to, or was it removed before you read it? For the record, I'm [B]extremely[/B] angry at myself for losing it to the extent that I did, but I used far cooler language than I wanted to. :) If I offended you with that, please accept my apologies. It's not my normal demeanor, but the post I reacted to was totally inflammatory and trollish. Worse yet, it rationalized and lent credence to a cardinal violation of sensible numismatics. The thing which bothers some about older threads being resurrected is that the knowledge contained therein might have changed in the meantime, making the thread spread disinformation. Moreover, the newer members or unregistered readers just happening by might be intimidated by the thought of having to go through a multipage thread, and bypass it, losing the chance to learn. As regards the topic at hand: The process is called "reduction." It works. Trouble is, it *only* reverses the process resulting in the silver sulfide "tarnish" on the coin, and it'll result in a pretty blotchy coin if anything else is clinging to the coin which the reduction doesn't remove. The formerly-tarnished surfaces will look obviously cleaned by comparison. The same could happen with untarnished surfaces which have "aged" for different reasons than the silver sulfide process - the result will be a coin which looks obviously cleaned. This, like every successful conservation technique, is a [I]very niche use case technique[/I]. I use it [B]only[/B] (and almost [B]always[/B] instead of dip) in those few situations where dip might actually be realistically called for - Mint State coins (or in rare cases sliders) which are otherwise untouched by any contaminant. Heavycam.monstervam, your Franklin might be a good candidate for learning the technique. You're only out a few bucks if it blows up in your face. If you attempt it, mix the baking soda and hot (no need for "boiling") water [B]first[/B]. The salt mentioned in some sources is most normally used during electrolysis, a similar process to this one.[/QUOTE]
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cleaning silver coins with aluminum foil, baking soda, and boiling water.
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