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<p>[QUOTE="Bullionbound, post: 769, member: 79"]First a caution: Proper dipping of a coin is a skill, and must be perfected through experience. Hence, try to make pretty pocket change first before trying your collectables. There are some major problems that can result from improper dipping. 1) cleaning using harsh chemicals can remove some surface metal and look very unatural, thereby reducing the value of the coin, 2) improper rinsing will leave a residue that will turn into a haze on the surface of your coin, 3) abrasions from improper "patting down" to dry will leave many fine scratches on the surface of the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Generally, dipping is best suited for modern proofs to bring out the contrast of the fields. This can improve the appearance of the coin if done properly. Cleaning of all other coins is highly risky and generally decreases the value of the coin. On the older and more valuable coins, it is best to leave be unless there is a good reason (i.e. tape residue).</p><p><br /></p><p>That said, dip first in acetone. Short exposures to the acetone are usually all that is needed. Immediately following the acetone exposure, rinse VERY well with distilled water (tap water has many impurities, so don't use it). At all times, hold the coin by the edges with plastic tongs (metal scratches). IMPORTANT, don't skimp on the water rinse. Some people pat the coin dry (not my first preference), others dip the coin very quickly in fresh acetone again and let air dry (acetone is volatile) and other yet dip in ethanol and let air dry (also volatile so dries faster than water to reduce the chance of spotting) - ETOH = ethanol (sorry). Isopropanol might also work, but it is not as volatile as ethanol when comparing similar percentages of alcohol. The higher the percentage of alcohol, the faster it will evaporate. That just means that there is relatively less water diluting the alcohol.</p><p><br /></p><p>Hope this helps, but not many people recommend this outside of modern proofs being sent in for slabbing.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Bullionbound, post: 769, member: 79"]First a caution: Proper dipping of a coin is a skill, and must be perfected through experience. Hence, try to make pretty pocket change first before trying your collectables. There are some major problems that can result from improper dipping. 1) cleaning using harsh chemicals can remove some surface metal and look very unatural, thereby reducing the value of the coin, 2) improper rinsing will leave a residue that will turn into a haze on the surface of your coin, 3) abrasions from improper "patting down" to dry will leave many fine scratches on the surface of the coin. Generally, dipping is best suited for modern proofs to bring out the contrast of the fields. This can improve the appearance of the coin if done properly. Cleaning of all other coins is highly risky and generally decreases the value of the coin. On the older and more valuable coins, it is best to leave be unless there is a good reason (i.e. tape residue). That said, dip first in acetone. Short exposures to the acetone are usually all that is needed. Immediately following the acetone exposure, rinse VERY well with distilled water (tap water has many impurities, so don't use it). At all times, hold the coin by the edges with plastic tongs (metal scratches). IMPORTANT, don't skimp on the water rinse. Some people pat the coin dry (not my first preference), others dip the coin very quickly in fresh acetone again and let air dry (acetone is volatile) and other yet dip in ethanol and let air dry (also volatile so dries faster than water to reduce the chance of spotting) - ETOH = ethanol (sorry). Isopropanol might also work, but it is not as volatile as ethanol when comparing similar percentages of alcohol. The higher the percentage of alcohol, the faster it will evaporate. That just means that there is relatively less water diluting the alcohol. Hope this helps, but not many people recommend this outside of modern proofs being sent in for slabbing.[/QUOTE]
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