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<p>[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2368067, member: 1892"]Regarding the difference between the "polished-looking" and "not" images, I have none at the moment; the degree of damage visible in the pics where it's lit exceed any of my previous experience regarding how much damage can be hidden via photography by an order of magnitude. The sun on the obverse is the best example; it's <b>scored</b>, fer cryin' out loud. In that regard, I await BigTee44 to specifically state that these images are all from the same coin (I don't doubt that) <b>at the same time</b>, because I believe they're before-and-afters. If he so states, I'll contemplate what might cause straight-up <b>gouges</b> to disappear with only lighting. Anyone who understands coin photography understands how deep those lines have to be to create the light/dark contrast between the lines and the adjacent, unmarred field.</p><p><br /></p><p>Regarding die polishing, I'm first astonished that this requires explanation to anyone who's ever seen it before.</p><p><br /></p><p>Second, I'll suggest you grab a sanding block and a sheet of 40-grit, and sand the edge of a stainless steel table. Make every_single_line stop short of the edge - at exactly the same spot - and oh, yeah, your technique has to pass over the edge so it'll hit a second table an inch away <b>on the same stroke at exactly the same strength </b>so you can see the lines you leave are continuous.</p><p><br /></p><p>But use a table with square edges and not round ones, because that's how dies are built. They do not "gradually taper" into the recessed devices; it's an edge.</p><p><br /></p><p>Having contemplated that, explain how you can polish a die (or, Doug, "wipe grease off a die" - what'd they do, stop the wiping cloth at the precise, equally-spaced point adjacent to the devices too?) without the lines at the precise edge of the devices not being at least equal in strength.</p><p><br /></p><p>Good Golly, folks. <b><i>Think</i></b>.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2368067, member: 1892"]Regarding the difference between the "polished-looking" and "not" images, I have none at the moment; the degree of damage visible in the pics where it's lit exceed any of my previous experience regarding how much damage can be hidden via photography by an order of magnitude. The sun on the obverse is the best example; it's [B]scored[/B], fer cryin' out loud. In that regard, I await BigTee44 to specifically state that these images are all from the same coin (I don't doubt that) [B]at the same time[/B], because I believe they're before-and-afters. If he so states, I'll contemplate what might cause straight-up [B]gouges[/B] to disappear with only lighting. Anyone who understands coin photography understands how deep those lines have to be to create the light/dark contrast between the lines and the adjacent, unmarred field. Regarding die polishing, I'm first astonished that this requires explanation to anyone who's ever seen it before. Second, I'll suggest you grab a sanding block and a sheet of 40-grit, and sand the edge of a stainless steel table. Make every_single_line stop short of the edge - at exactly the same spot - and oh, yeah, your technique has to pass over the edge so it'll hit a second table an inch away [B]on the same stroke at exactly the same strength [/B]so you can see the lines you leave are continuous. But use a table with square edges and not round ones, because that's how dies are built. They do not "gradually taper" into the recessed devices; it's an edge. Having contemplated that, explain how you can polish a die (or, Doug, "wipe grease off a die" - what'd they do, stop the wiping cloth at the precise, equally-spaced point adjacent to the devices too?) without the lines at the precise edge of the devices not being at least equal in strength. Good Golly, folks. [B][I]Think[/I][/B].[/QUOTE]
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Cleaned or Polished die?
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