Cleaned coins vs Uncleaned coins

acetone??!! One needs needs to use soap or some weak/diluted acid Soap forms micelles which can pickup loose gunk particles and the acid can destroy copper based carbonates, nitrates, oxides, sulfates, and hydroxides. ( sorry I get too much into chemistry sometimes)

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

(Still I’m very sry )

 

So did I, but you really want to read some more threads about cleaning before making that kind of recommendation.

Using acid on copper will trash its surface, at least from a collector's point of view. Removing the natural oxide layer will leave you with an unnaturally bright-orange coin. And if you get any oxidizing or complexing component in the mix, it's easy to etch copper, and there's no coming back from that.

If you use soap, it'll remove fatty or oily components, but (a) it's hard to make sure you've rinsed it all off and (b) many soaps contain perfumes, colorants, lotions, or other things that can harm coins.

General advice here and elsewhere is to try soaking in water, then in acetone (removes skin oils and various other organic stuff), then in xylene (removes waxes and tars and such).

And NO RUBBING.

 

ooohhh looks like I overlooked the art about cleaning coins. Hehe sorry

 

But I gotta say what is xylene?

 

Never mind but it’s poisonous

 

Peter, if you stick around here long enough, you'll see all sorts of recommendations for coin care that you should NOT follow. Post #121 in this very thread is an example.

Seriously though, a water soak is fine and in most cases should be the first thing you do. Water will remove dirt, but not the organic gunk. That's what acetone is for. Just no rubbing with Q-tips, brushes, cloths, fingers, etc.

When Kanga mentioned instructions, I think he meant "personal safety" instructions. Acetone is a pretty serious chemical. Use in a well ventilated area, and far, far away from any open flames. It also evaporates at a breakneck speed, so keep your soaking container (glass or ceramic, not plastic) covered.

As for acetone on copper and bronze coins, I personally prefer starting with xylene first to see if that will do the job. If it doesn't, then I move to the acetone. On silver, nickel or clad, I start with acetone.

I wouldn't. I'd be concerned about the possibility of the air being contaminated with chemicals or other unsavory substances.

 

Hey, glad you like chemistry, so do I. For solvents, they are widely grouped into polar and non-polar (one of many classifications). Water is polar, most organic solvents are non-polar. Within the organics there are different gradiations of polarity, alcohols and organic acids are polar, most other solvents/compounds are not. Aside from polarity, there is aliphatic (mostly c-c single bonds) and aromatic (has conjugated double bonds). Each of these seems to have different materials they will dissolve. To do a thorough job, it is usually best to start off with water (polar), this can be followed up by acetone (more non-polar and aliphatic) and perhaps finishing with xylene (aromatic and non-polar). Xylene is like benzene, but with two methyl groups arranged on the ring, commercial stuff is usually a mix or the three possibilities. Benzene evaporates pretty fast and is carcinogenic, so avoid it, one methyl group on the ring gives toluene which is much less carcinogenic, but still evaporates fast, two methyl groups gives xylene which evaporates much more slowly. Gotta do it...three methyl groups gives mesitylene, I just love that name.

 

Hehe me too but y use xylene. I know it’s poisonous and I’m scared to get poisoned plus I kinda like non-organic chemistry better than organic chemistry but thx for the advice. Really appreciate it! Star x 9999999999

 

Bad news: copper is poisonous. So is gasoline; in fact, the gas in your car probably contains a substantial amount of xylene. It's probably one of the less toxic components.

 

I meant too much of the quantity not too little because it doesn’t harm you that much.

 

Thanks Max, and i'm guilty using my finger nail.
Yup this is one touchy subject but for the good.
So even using a sharp tip wooden tooth pic with gentleness is a no no. Like I had posted just to remove any goo that might of build up around dates, mint marks or in any type of pocket on the coin.
If the goo has been there for quite some time i'm thinking if it's removed that spot might be shinier.
I'm into copper pennies but I can't remember where but found this 1906 liberty nickel that has seen better days and looks like a metal detector find.
The date is actually very visible and the face and stars but the back is awful.
Its a little greened but as it's not worth much wondering what I can soak it in with whats laying in my house? Just want to see if there's anymore detail on it.
I really should stop posting pic's till I get the right camera.

 

on the coin there’s really good malachite formations

 

Like I see one individual crystal

 

Do you think there's any possibility that it could be copper chloride or copper sulfate or some combination of "stuff"? Many times, you can't equate reaction products on the surface of an environmentally damage coin to a specific mineral unless you do an analytical test.

Just some things to think about while you build your knowledge of numismatics, geology and chemistry

 

I assumed this was because it's April 1st.

 

to

 

that was a few days ago

 

So if leave it alone it will grow some huge green emeralds?
Haven't tried anything yet, I don't have olive oil on hand but some cooking spray.