Cleaned coins vs Uncleaned coins

Thank you

 

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This is a good 1 , Thanks.

 

I was able to produce cleaning marks in the same penny with an eraser. For reference to cleaning marks. Original scratches, Image 1.
I then aggressively "erased" north to south creating vertical cleaning lines and actually removing some scratches, to my surprise, but at the same time removing the luster - Image 2. Then I "erased" east to west and cleaning marks became very apparent - Image 3. This was just for personal visual reference. Note: With a loupe, there is no discernable evidence of this aggressive type of cleaning. This is only noticable under high mag. Even cartwheel remains.

 

And thank you for looking.

 

Excellent documentation! Thanks for posting this!

But I'll bet that those microscopic scratches would still catch the light if it hits from the right angle, and that would be visible even without magnification.

 

Yes Jeff, you are right. I was hasty. I can see the lines with just the right light and just the right angle under about 3x. You really have to try and can only see them from 1 perspective, and once you see them they are obvious.

 

A very steep angle 40 degrees and rotating the coin just so, made the damage pop out.

 

The market seems to like either white coins with silver or colorfully toned if it is real. So dipping seems to be a market necessity if it can be done well, properly conserved. PCGS and NGC have the best chemicals for that if you can wait and are willing to pay the expense.

 

When the die is scratched, it will create troughs in the surface. The edges of the troughs will be raised, like berms on a dyke. These would look indented on the coin. You cannot have just the indentations on a coin without the raised marks from the scratches on the die. I have a 1916 Barber Quarter with severe die polishing on obverse and reverse. It impairs the luster, but the coin is graded MS63 by PCGS.

 

Or it curls away from the surface and falls off, right?

Run a piece of sandpaper over a metal surface, then look at the sandpaper. There'll likely be a dark streak on it. That's metal that's been removed from the surface.

I'm sure some, maybe most, die lines result from metal simply being pushed aside by a sharp object. But isn't it likely that at least some will mark places where metal was actually removed, leaving (on the die) a trench without a raised line, and (on the coin) a raised line without a trench?

 

Outstanding thread and very educational

 

Great explanation thanks. As to- CGS I just meant Coin Grading Services in general.

 

Hi everyone,
so i'm reading that a wet all cotton Qtip is ok? on pennies at least?
It's just to remove the usual crud that builds up around the dates and mint mark to get a better view.

 

Not "wet" as in "water".
Get some acetone instead and READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ABOUT ITS USE!!!

 

I wouldn't use a Q-tip, particularly not on an uncirculated or proof coin, or any coin of meaningful value.

On a worn coin of low/no value, it's probably no harm/no foul. However...

In most cases, a soak in acetone or xylene will safely remove that crud without the need for a Q-tip.

 

Thanks! I was reading the posts on around page 2 of this thread with soaking in water and rolling a Qtip over the coin..
Acetone and following strict instructions.. This on copper also?
What about canned air for electronics. I have seen this canned air though leave specs of foam or something on my keyboard?

 

W-tips? No way, not on my coins. Despite it being soft, it's still fibrous and that can leave small scratch marks.