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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;EyeEatWheaties, post: 980092, member: 26972&quot;]It&#039;s not about price for me.</p><p><br /></p><p>I would take a MS60 dipped, first strike 1923 Wheatie for $150 over a&nbsp; MS66BN for completely tarnished, last struck 1923 Wheatie for $25 ..&nbsp; I am not crazy to&nbsp; pick the MS60 over the MS67 because the details in the 67 are so crappy that it might look AU - I search and collect well struck coins first and foremost!</p><p><br /></p><p>Full detailed San Fran Wheaties from the 20&#039;s are my current mission in life.</p><p><br /></p><p>It is my opinion and only my opinion, I don&#039;t think I have ever heard anyone say this...&nbsp;&nbsp; I think that coins should be graded for the details of the strike first, then detractions like knicks and dings second, toning from oxidation whether introduced over a few seconds or a few decades could be factored in, but since copper is so reactive with so many different things, It just seems normal to me.</p><p><br /></p><p>I mean I have a Harris folder of pennies that I have collected them (like woodies) that exhibit a red color and I am not talking about MS red.&nbsp; Also have a black and green collection!&nbsp;&nbsp; The purple hues on some Uncirculated pennies has me baffled .....&nbsp;&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp;<p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #000000"></span></p> <p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #000000"><br /></span></p> <p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #000000"><br /></span></p><p>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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